CHAPTER XVIII.

A VOYAGE UP THE NILE— DESCRIPTION OF TOMBS AND TEMPLES- PRO DORIC COLUMNS.
(sj\ FTER leaving tlie Fa3'um we made our way to Wasta, for the pur- ^^ pose of getting our mail, and went on up to Beni-Suef, by the cars,
^^ — ' as there was little to be seen that would interest any one on the river between these two places. It becomes quite monotonous, simply watching sandy banks, palm groves and the same peculiar features of the villages we pass on our way into Upper Egypt. There is very little to occasion amusement or to excite interest in the river scenery until you begin to approach Beni-Suef.
This town has a population of about twelve thousand inhabitants, is located twenty-two miles from Wasta and seventy-two from Cairo. It contains both post and telegraph offices and a railway station, the steamers stopping here, discharge their freight and passengers, and take on others going to the South. It is very seldom though that passengers are left here, excepting natives, or those Europeans and Americans who intend going into the Fayum, by the road leading to the brick Pyramid of iT/ Laliun. They sometimes take on passengers who like ourselves have " done " the Fayum. The wharfs and banks of the river are crowded with quite a number of regular, dirty Nile boats, and there are a few build- ings erected close to the river ; but the town proper lies quite a wa}' back from the river front, the houses being built of sun-dried bricks of Nile mud, present no new features to us. It has a bazar, fairly well supplied with merchandise of the usual articles seen in such places ; but there is little of interest in this town, although it presents a very prettj^ view from the river, for the island is well covered with vegetation of all kinds, and the house of the Khedive looked quite charming peeping out from behind its leaf}^ screen. The chief industries of Beni-Suef are carpet and linen, of a much inferior quality to what it was in the time of Leo Africanus, when this town was noted for its manufacture of fine linen fabrics ; in fact
41-1 EGYPT, THE CRADLE OF ANCIENT MASONRY.
it used to supply the whole of Egypt with flax, and exported large quan- tities to the varioiis cities along the Mediterranean Sea.
From this place we start to do Upper Egypt in a Dahabiyeh, a mode of travel suiting myself and companions better than any other. It was, of course, more expensive than either cars or steamer ; but we realized that wherever we should desire to stop, we would always have our home with us, on the river banks, with such comforts and accommodations as can only be truly appreciated and enjoyed. After long and weary tramping across the drifting desert sands, to examine some ruined tomb or temple, or some point of interest and come back to a refreshing bath, a good meal and the luxuries of a good, quiet resting place is an inexpressible convenience, I can assure you.
We had made all necessary arrangements for our boat, before leaving Cairo, to meet us at Beni-Suef On our arrival at that place our Dragoman met us, and with the assistance of some of our sailors we were escorted, bag and baggage, to our clean and home-like quarters, where we found everything as nice and pleasant as could possibly be expected, under the circumstances, as we had arrived a day before our time. Under the superintendence of our bijou of a Dragoman we were, nevertheless, soon made as comfortable as could be desired, and that night, after dinner, we sat on the deck of our boat, under the glittering stars of an unclouded sky, smoking our cigars and chatting of the wonders of the Fayum, and on retiring were lulled to sleep b\' the rippling waters of the river Nile.
We were in no particular hurry to complete our journey, as my com- panions and I were going through this extraordinary countr}^ for the pleasure of seeing some of the stupendous fabrics belonging to the civil- ization of a prehistoric age. Accompanied by these genial associates I was going into the valley of the Nile with a determination to see all that was to be seen, and to study for myself the gigantic remains of the Tombs, Temples, Monuments and Mummies scattered promiscuously from one end of this interesting valley to the other, searching for evidences of our glorious fraternity amid the debris of departed ages. Realizing the immeasurable beuefits conferred upon mankind by its teachings, descend- ing from generation to generation, through all the vicissitudes and muta- tions of time, I was endeavoring, by these researches, to arrive at an
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EGYPT, THE CRADLE OF ANCIENT MASONRY. 415
intelligent understanding of the Arts, Sciences and Philosophies belong- ing to the Ancient Egyptians long centuries before Homer sang of " Hun- dred gated Thebes." My companions and I had travelled together through many parts of India, and had done considerable of Bgypt in each other's company. We thoroughly understood each other's peculiarities, and, consequently knew that no " Dahabiyeh Devil " could ever disturb the pleasure of our voyage.
Our berths had been selected before leaving Cairo, so that now every- thing had been nicely arranged for our comfort when we went on board our boat at this village of Beni Suef. I had laid in an abundant supply of cigars, and a thousand and one other articles I would need during the voyage. My companions had done the same ; but before starting we strolled up to the bazar to make a few purchases and while Ave were look- ing at the various wares exposed for sale, my boy Salame, came rushing up to inform us that a fine fresh breeze was springing up from the North and that everything was in readiness for our departure, con- sequently we hurried off down to the wharf, stepped on board our dahabiyeh, the ropes were cast off, the sails hoisted and we went plowing along towards the steep and rocky cliffs which adorn the east bank of the Nile.
It reminded me of the happy days of long ago, to stand once more on board a dahabiyeh, to see the great big lateen sails swelling out before a good stiff north wind and hear the water rippling along under our quarter. Our boat scudded along upon the bosom of this famous river and we watched the ever changing scenery of the fertile fields upon the banks, with occasionally here and there a village to attract our attention. It was one continuous panorama of cotton, cane, clover, tasseled corn, sweet scented bean fields, purple lupins, and palm groves, with now and then the white-washed walls of a Sheik's tomb, or white minaret peeping out from amid the dense foliage surrounding them. The tall black chimneys of some sugar plantation occasionally came into view, while pigeon towers, with clouds of fluttering birds around them, seemed ever to be coming and going. We could hear at times the loud hoarse scream of a locomotive that was passing, the noise of which scared the white paddy birds and others from the banks of the river and the small islands dotting the stream on our way.
416 EGYPT, THE CRADLE OF ANCIENT MASONRY.
Ever}^ new village of mud-dried bricks was like the one just passed and the same river was rushing by, upon whose placid bosom drifted the magnificent barge of the renowned Cleopatra, now cut by the prow of our swiftly gliding boat. How dream}^ the air and how beautiful the scenery! One must see for himself its wondrous charms, to be able fully to appreciate and enjoy the delightful pleasure of a voyage up the Nile in an Arab boat, manned by an Arab crew and under the super- vision of a good Dragoman. It was one continuous round of ecstacy to be away from the cares of the world, with its pleasures and its pains, leaving civilization far behind as we sailed along upon the bosom of a mighty river.
Warburton says, in " Crescent and the Cross," page i8o, " No words can convey an idea of the beaut}^ and delightfulness of tropical weather, at least while any breeze from the north is blowing. There is a pleasure in the very act of breathing, a voluptuous consciousness that existence is a blessed thing ; the pulse beats high, but calmly ; the eye feels expanded, the chest heaves pleasurably as if air was a delicious draught to thirsty lungs, and the mind takes its coloring, and cha,racter from sensation. No thought of melancholy ever darkens over us ; no painful sense of isolation or of loneliness, as day after day we pass on through silent deserts, upon the silent and solemn river. One seems, as it were removed into another state of existence ; and all strifes and struggles of that from which we have emerged seem to fade, softened into indistinctness."
This might}^ river has echoed to the demonstrated thoughts of a nation that had risen to wondrous heights of Science, Arts and Philoso- phies long centuries before the harps of Israel grew melodious with the songs of David ; whose history can be deciphered, not only in the hieroglj'phic inscriptions written with pens of steel and bronze and her mummied dead, but also in her works of Art which adorned the banks of this grand old river Nile before the dawn of histor}^ These works demonstrate the extent of knowledge to which this ancient people had attained long centuries before Abraham came from Chaldea.
Who can tell when Egypt first began to develop, with gigantic strides, her onward march to civilization ? How, when, or from whence she received her wondrous knowledge ? We know not, and can only
EGYPT, THE CRADLE OF ANCIENT MASONRY. 417
partially guess that she received it from the " Land of the Vedas." We can see the effect of the Wisdom that pertained to the people who built the stupendous Tombs, Temples and Monuments, whose ruins to-day lie scattered around, from one end of this remarkable valley to the other. Although a great majority of those extraordinary fabrics have crumbled into dust, becoming mixed with the drifting sands of the desert, and blown by the winds of heaven to the four cardinal points of the universe ; yet, to-day, in this twentieth centur}', our most eminent men stand with bowed heads in admiration before the very vestiges of their departed glory. With silent but impressive tongues they impart to us the very thoughts of the people of ancient Egypt to whose knowledge and skill the world is indebted for these majestic tombs, temples and monolithic statues, whose very ruins command our most profound respect and admiration.
A sight in Upper Egypt never to be forgotten is the imposing effect of the setting sun upon the surrounding scenery. When the heat of the day has passed, the shadows of the palm trees lengthen out and go creeping across the Western bank, down into the flowing waters of the river. The deep recesses of the yellow cliffs of the mountains approach closer to the Nile, on the East, taking on a deep violet color, while their faces are lit up with a ruddy golden hue, changing again into a lovely roseate tinge, successively passing through all the colors of the rainbow. On the West bank the palms turn into a deeper bronze against the crimson and gold of the Western horizon, and as the glowing sun sank from our view, the mountains in the East changed to a very peculiar greenish grey color. The heavens above were illumined with an indescrib- able halo of glory, followed by a deep and beautiful blue, which gradually faded into a deeper and deeper tint, until finally the golden yellow, red and pink colors gradually dissolve and the blue became more clearly defined. One by one the stars began to appear in the azure vault above, a soft tremulous glow of twilight fell upon the scene, soon to fade away, and another day had passed and gone forever across the threshold of eternity. All that was left to remind us of its passing was the halo of light, the after-glow flashing up from the West-Gate in streams of light, lasting but for a short time, thus closing the day by the command of the Supreme Architect of the Universe, and darkness covered the face of the earth. From out the depths of the gloom came the lowing of cattle, the 27
418 EGYPT, THE CRADLE OF ANCIENT MASONRY.
voices of the fellaheen upon the banks of the river, as they return home- ward from their labors of the day, and the swish of the waters of the river as our boat went sailing, with a light breeze, over the shimmering bosom of the glorious river Nile.
We passed islands thickly populated with paddy birds, rising in clouds at our approach and flying over to the western shore to disappear among the vegetation which lines its banks. We passed Bibba, with its peculiar looking Coptic convent, whose roof was covered with numerous little mud domes, and noticed quite a number of pelicans, herons, lap- wings, purple Nile geese, and heard the shriek of the whistle of a locomotive as it went rushing by, with its motley crowd of passengers. As the sun Avent down in crimson and gold the wind died out and our captain sheered the boat into the bank of the river, the tall flapping sails were furled, and we tied up for the night under the glittering stars of an Egyptian sky.
Our sailors gathered around the fire for their evening meal and soon afterward the air resounded to their double pipe and drum. The guttural notes of an Arab love song rang out upon the stillness of the night, every verse of which was sung as a solo, but the last two lines were generally repeated by the whole crew, as a chorus, accompanied by clapping of hands, the beating of drum, and the shrill quick notes of the double pipe. They never seem to tire of singing, and every one of them seems to be fairly good performers on the pipe and drum. This latter instrument is simply an earthen vessel, with a skin stretched over the open end. (We afterwards procured two good tambourines for them.) The}' usually beat the drum as a tambourine with the open hand. Every night, whether sailing on the grand old river, or tied up to the bank, they gather in a circle and sing their songs and laugh and jest with each other like so many boys, until they tire, when they wrap themselves in their white capotes and seek the drowsy God. Some of these songs are quite humor- ous, others grave and sentimental. I shall quote you two songs that were translated especially for Eliot Warburton and his " Crescent and, Cross : "
SERENADE.
I' Come forth, bright girl, and midnight skies Will think that morning's gate uncloses ; The dazzled dew will think thine eyes Are suns, and vanish from the roses.
EGYPT, THE CRADLE OF ANCIENT MASONRY. 419
Allah ! how my heart-strings stir ! Harp-like, touched by thought of her ! Holy prophet ! blessed be thou ! Fairest maiden, hear my vow !
"The rich red wine seems mantling high Within thy cheeks so roseate glowing, And beauty-drunkenness through mine eye Is all my fevered heart o'erflowing. Blessed Allah ! send thy grace ! Blessed Allah ! make my face White, before thy presence dread Wakes to life the slumbering dead.
The following is quite a favorite among the boatmen of the Nile : THE MOTHER TO HER DAUGHTER.
MOTHER.
My daughter, 'tis time that thou wert wed. Ten summers already have shone o'er thy head ; I must find thee a husband, if, under the sun, The conscript-catcher has left us one.
DAUGHTER.
Dear mother, one husband will never do I have so much love, that I must have two ; And I'll find for each, as you shall see, More love than both can bring to me.
One husband shall carry a lance so bright ; He shall roam the desert for spoil by night ; And when morning lights up the dark palm-tree He shall find sweet welcome home from me.
The other a sailor bold shall be ; He shall fish all day in the deep blue sea ; > And when evening brings his hour of rest, He shall find repose on this faithful breast.
MOTHER.
There's no chance, my child, of a double match For men are scarce, and hard to catch ; So I fear you i?iusf make one husband do. And try to love him as well as two.
420 EGYPT. THE CRADLE OF ANCIENT MASONRY.
Our crew consisted of a Reis (Captain) a Pilot, twelve sailors, one good cook, a second cook, two good servants, a man to wash and iron and help in the cabin, one bo}^ cook for the sailors and a dragoman who had charge of the whole outfit, subject of course to our special desire. These had been outlined in an agreement drawn up at oitr Consulate, duly signed and witnessed. I unist certainly admit that the agreement was kept to the very letter, consequently the entire crew were liberally re- membered when the question of bak-sheesh was considered at the expira- tion of our voyage.
Ah, what glorious uights were spent in our journey up that grand old river Nile. This night, especially, was enjoyable beyond expression, as each object around was enhanced and softened by the lovely moonlit rays. The very mountains stood out sharp and clearly defined under the silvery light of the brilliant moon ; the radiant stars seemed to sparkle with indescribable splendor and beaut}-. Old god Nilus flowed quietly by, without a ripple upon its surface, and not a sound disturbed the silence of the night. The very air we breathed seemed full of quiet reverie, a dreamy indescribable feeling seemed to steal o'er us, and we were lost in our own thoughts. We were in the heart of the Land of the Pharaohs, upon the ver}- river which bore upon its throbbing bosom the rush cradle wherein slept the infant IMoses, and no doubt these very hills and banks have resounded to the laughter of Mark Antony and Cleopatra, with their attendants, as they floated o'er the flowing waters of the river in her gilded barge. Philosophers and learned men of every age have watched these self-same stars, under just as glorious a sky as shone down upon us that night. As we sat enwrapped in the majesty of its divine light memories of the grandeur of Egypt in her " Golden Age " came back to us and we saw, in fanc}-, the hundred gated Thebes, the glory of Memphian splendor, statelj^ Heliopolis and the glorious cities of the dim and misty past, which, in imagination, we peopled again, as in the da3's of Ancient Egyptian splendor, when the Arts and Spiences were flourishing long before the Sphinx looked to the East. What an extraordinary panorama of events passed in review before us, comprising epochs of advanced knowledge, whose precepts and teachings were to be lost through successive ages ; long processions of conquering armies and the domination of the imperial Csesars, down to the Egypt of to-day.
EGYPT, THE CRADLE OF ANCIENT MASONRY. 421
Our reverie came abruptly to an end, and we retired to our cabin to dream in the arms of Morpheus, of white robed and leopard-clad priests, and vestal virgins performing their mystic rites and ceremonies, who crown us with laurel wreaths and lotus buds as they lead us up to their altar of Fire to receive the Light. As we prostrate ourselves before its radiance we awake with a start to find the Sun God Ra looking down upon us from his throne on high, and the jarring, jangling sound of a gong reverberating throughout the cabin, proclaiming the approach of our morning meal.
We took our regular morning plunge into the river, had our coffee presented to us by our dragoman, Hassan, who told us that we were close to the town of Feshn, and he pointed out to us the white-washed walls of the houses a short distance from the river.
This town is situated twenty-four miles from our starting-place, Beni Suef, and ninety-six miles from Cairo. It is surrounded with iinely cultivated fields, gardens, palm groves, pomegranate trees, a variety of shrubs and all kinds of vegetables. We strolled out upon the bank of the river, gun in hand accompanied by Salame, and in a very short time we shot two or three brace of red-legged partridges, a couple of dozen quail and returned to the boat to enjoy our breakfast "' al fescoP As we sat un- der the awning, shaded from the glowing rays of the morning sun, our sailors harnessed themselves to the tow line and reis Abdallah sheered our boat off from the bank, and we went crawling along, accompanied by the sounding voices of the sailors upon the tow path. Soon a light air sprung up, our boat gathered head-way as the large sails swelled out, full and round before the freshening wind, when the men dropped the tow line, wrapped their scanty clothing around their heads, plunged into the river and came swimming alongside like so many tritons, with glistening skins and laugh- ing faces, and as we sailed by the water front of Feshn, pur sailors seemed to loose themselves in song and music. The sound of the drum, tam- bourines and pipes resounded over the river, the people gathered upon the banks and watched us as our boat went gliding by, like some gigantic bird o'er the sparkling waters.
A few miles above Feshn, upon the Fast bank of the river, we saw El-Kebi or Medinet el-Gahil, which marks the site of a very ancient Egyptian town. The site and fortifications can be plainly traced by the
422 EGYPT, THE CRADLE OF ANCIENT MASONRY.
remains of the houses and ancient forts said to have been constructed by Men-Kheeper-Ra and Isis-em-Kheb against invasions from the North, on which side it is most strong!}' fortified. These fortifications run clear down to the river and out upon the rocks. We noticed that many of the bricks used in the building of this town and fortifications were marked with the names of both the High Priest of Thebes and his wife. There appears to have been a very fine stone quay or landing place, built quite close to the river and numerous tombs of all kinds just outside the town. The old city of Hipponon lies a couple of miles from these ruins, ofi" to the South-east. In the ancient days of Pharaonic history it was the capital of the XVIIIth Nome of Upper Egypt. We passed El-Fent^ located quite a distance back from the river, on the West bank amidst fertile fields, palm groves and gardens.
After rounding the bend of the river we saw Malaieya and the site of some very ancient mounds, also, on the West bank, but close to the river, and for the first time in quite a distance, fields of waving grain again came into view upon the East bank, and just beyond this vegetation, under the shadow of the table mountain of Gebel-Shekh Enibarak^ we saw the site of an ancient city, which was in the height of its glory during the Roman domination. In this place we found the remains of an ancient flint manufactory, as the ground was literally strewn with flint implements of all kinds. The wind continued to blow softly in our favor, so we kept on our way southward, sailing by the rock}' shores on the east and turn- ing arouud the curving bank of the river, we sailed by a large island and discovered Maghagha, off to our right on the West bank surroi:nded by extensive sugar plantations.
There is a very large sugar factory here which is well worth seeing, besides a post-ofiice and railway station. During the cane harvest it is a very busy place, but at other times is quite dull. The river here grew very wide, interspersed with several small islands, and a short distance above the town were numerous sand bars which seemed to be a favorite resort for all kinds of wild foul.
A little farther on we passed Hagar-es-Salam^ the "Stone of Welfare," which is a large rock in the river, close to the shore. It had received its peculiar name from a superstition existing among the Nile boatmen. They believe a voyage down the river would not be prosperous until it
EGYPT, THE CRADLE OF ANCIENT MASONRY. 423
is passed. We now noticed that the mountains bordering the river for quite a distance began to recede toward the East.
We passed Sharona on the East bank and Aba on the West, with ruins of ancient cities on both sides of the river. The wind freshened as we went careening along, by sand bars and small islands, inhabited by great flocks of birds who rose in clouds as we neared them.
We soon sighted Abu Gtrga, on the West bank, which boasts of a post- office besides a telegraph and railway station. It is a very fine looking place from the river, centered in a beautiful cultivated plain. The town is about half an hour's walk from the landing, surrounded with fine palm groves, flowering shrubs and some very extensive mounds. About eight miles to the West, on the Bahr Yusuf^ and near the edge of the desert is located Behnesa (the ancient city of Oxyrrhinkhos)^ in the Nome of Sep^ a point of departure for all desiring to visit the Little Oasis or WoJi el- Bahariya^ {the Oasis Parva of the Romans). It is about four days' jour- ney from Behnesa and is reached, generally, by sumpter camels Avhich travel about three to five miles per hour, on the average, although a great deal more can be got out of them if you push them hard.
There are a number of inhabited spots in this Oasis, but it is very unhealthy on account of the stagnant lakes or ponds of water which exhale a pernicious miasma, dangerous alike to natives and travellers, as it produces a very serious remittent fever, manifesting itself twice a 3''ear, in Summer and in Autumn. All those desirous of visiting this place should therefore do so either in the Winter or in the Spring, that they may escape the danger of this fever, which is very easil}' taken. Some fine gardens exist here, the best of which are to be found in the vicinity of El-Quasr. All kinds of fruit, such as pomegranates, bananas, oranges, apricots, figs, grapes, etc., grow in abundance. A number of hot springs also bubble up in this Oasis, the waters of which have a temperature of about 1 60° F. Very much finer dates are produced here than in any other part of the valley of the Nile. Their date palms yield in far greater abundance and the best are called the Kaka. It is from the date crop that they derive their principal revenue.
The city of OxyrrJiynl^hos derives its name from a fish which the natives used to worship. The town, to-day, is of very little importance, the desert sands having drifted into large sand-dunes that extend all along
424 EGYPT, THE CRADLE OF ANCIENT MASONRY.
the edge of tlie cultivated land, and on tlie southern part of the site of the old city, are mounds covered with sand, above which, have been erected several Sheik's tombs, while upon others we find large quantities of pot- tery, bricks, stones, columns, pieces of cornices and very peculiar looking altar-like stones, which go to prove the existence of a large city here at some time, whose size is demonstrated in the extent of the mounds.
There are some very interesting caverns to be seen a short distance to the northwest of the present town of Behnesa, one of which is decorated with a series of columns, but we are unable to explore and investigate them, as we would desire, on account of their being filled with water. The cit}' of Oxyrrhynkhos was, during the fifth century, a stronghold of the Christians, and the town itself was noted for its churches, said to have been twelve in number. History informs us that the diocese contained ten thousand monks and twelve hundred nuns; its Egyptian name was Pa-Maze^ and during the Arab domination it had quite a large population.
All around Abu Girga are to be found the ruined sites of aucient towns and cities, for instance, about three miles south of this place, and about a mile and a half from the river, we come to the town of El-Oes, the ancient site of Kynopolis — the " City of Dogs." It is here that Amubis was -worshipped and all dogs held in great veneration by the ancient inhabitants, so much so that to kill one was considered the greatest crime which could be committed, and Plutarch tells how a quarrel once arose between these two Nomes of Sep and Kynopolis, requiring Roman intervention to settle. The citizens of each Nome, as it seems, had killed and eaten the sacred gods, or dog and fish, of the other, which act caused such bitter strife and ill-feeling that, as I have before stated, the Roman author- ity^ had to interfere. Some discussion has arisen as to the proof of the site of this city of Kynopolis ; many historians place it upon the East bank, at Shekh Fadl, while according to Ptolemy it was situated upon an island of the Nile ; but there is no evidence of such an island to-day, although Murray says :
" There is reason to believe that one branch of the Nile had been stopped in this spot, which once flowed to the west of El-Qes ; and this would accord with the position of Kynopolis on an island, according to Ptolemy, and account for the statement of Mukkan that El-Oes was on the East bank." At Shekh Fadl there are to be found evidences of two
EGYPT, THE CRADLE OF ANCIENT MASONRY. 425
small temples, the site of which is now occupied by a sugar factory, sur- rounded by very nice gardens, etc., in fact there are cultivated fields on the East bank the entire distance from Shekh Embarak, opposite Maghagah, to this place Shekh Fadl. Not far from here is where Father Sicard found quite a number of dog mummies, and in examining this subject we find the existence of more than one breed of dogs in Egypt in those days. There are in addition many other things which will possess great interest to the traveller or explorer in this vicinity.
In the morning we arose to find our boat under wa}^, with just enough Avind blowing to keep steerage way upon her ; so we took our toast and coffee, lit a good cigar and went up under the awning to watch the sur- rounding scenery. As we watched the river bank receding we also noticed that the various sand spits were literally alive with all kinds of birds, such as the snow white pelican, flamingo, purple Nile geese. Ibis, Heron, plover, golden snipe, etc., etc., and saw away up in the azure sky an eagle watch- ing its prey, far below him, while the pied kingfishers were plying their vocation. Flocks of sheep and many goats were browsing along the shore, while buffaloes and camels were to be seen under the care of some fella- heen, who was driving them along the path by the river, and all the time the songs of our sailors rang out upon the morning air in one continuous stream, like the flowing waters of the river itself, as they never seemed to tire of singing, and to tell the truth we had grown so accustomed to it we were beginning to like it, for it served to break the monotony of our voyage.
The gong rang out, and we went down the narrow steps to partake of an excellent meal, after which we came on deck again to see our sailors tracking along the tow-path, with their scanty costumes flapping as they went bobbing along, harnessed on to the tow-line, and the sound of their everlasting songs ringing out in unison to tramping footsteps. As we watched them the Avind sprang up again, the ropes were dropped, they twisted their clothes around their heads, plunged into the river, clambered on board, loosed the great big sails, and once more we went careening along the sparkling waters up towards Kolosana, which is quite a large village on the west bank of the river, sixty-four miles from Beni Suef, and one hundred and thirty-six miles from Cairo.
It lies close to the river and presents quite a picturesque appearance from here, with its very fine-looking palm groves and fertile fields.
426 EGYPT, THE CRADLE OF ANCIENT MASONRY.
There is both post and telegraph ofiEces here, as well as a railway- station. The town is located on high mounds, and the bank of the river at this place is effected by the wash of its waters.
On the opposite side of the Nile, on its east bank, is the village of Surariya, and jnst beyond it are the ruins of some very ancient towns, as well as the remains of a very ancient temple in a rather out-of-the-way place among the rocks, which belonged to the nineteenth dynasty. The representations upon the walls show that the triad of Sebek, Hathor and Horus were worshipped here. Rameses III, Horus and the god Sebek, with the head of a crocodile, are plainly to be seen upon the walls. The hills recede close to this place, falling off to the southeast and form- ing the northern side of the Wady ed-Der. To the northwest of its mouth and about ten minutes' walk from the river are some very fine limestone quarries, wherein we found a painted grotto temple that had been dedicated to Hathor, . and inscribed upon it were the names of Rameses II (Mer-en-Ptah), and Seti II.
Just beyond Kolosana we passed two large islands, and saw the cars go rushing by on their way south. The wind began to die out and our great sails began to flap idly in the calm of the evening, when our reis Abdallah again sheered the boat under the bank, and we tied up for the night a short distance north of the village of Samallut. It has a railway station with post and telegraph offices, and lies about half a mile from the river and about five miles south of Kolosana. This is quite a large town, conspicuous for a tall and graceful minaret rising from amidst a very fine grove of palm trees. The town is surrounded by fields of cane, clover, beans, etc., and there are some very good sugar factories located here. A little farther on, to the south, and on the east bank, are the lofty and precipitous cliffs oi Gcbcl ct-Ter, "Bird Mountain." Taking my gun and Salame along with me to carry the birds, we strolled down the river towards Kolosana, while Hassan took Musa along with him to make some purchases of butter, eggs, etc., at Samallut, to replenish our larder, while our sailors indr:lged themselves, by gathering in a circle in the usual way, to sing their customary songs. Salame and I soon had plenty of sport, for he enjoyed the retrieving process about as much I did knocking the birds over. In a very little while we found that we had bagged a lot of quail, over a dozen fine ducks, a few grouse and one very
EGYPT, THE CRADLE OF ANCIENT MASONRY. -i^T
large snow-white pelican that I desired for a specimen. We then returned to the boat in time for my bath, and I dressed just as the gong rang out for dinner. After dinner we went on deck, threw ourselves into our nice cosy chairs under the awning, lit our cigars and watched the glorious sunset and the play of colors upon the high and lofty cliffs of Gebel et-Ter.
It would be simply impossible to express in words the gorgeous coloring, the play of lights and shades, the deep flush of crimson, pink, and gold, with the sweet, indescribable after-glow of a Nile sunset. I have watched the setting sun in many climes and countries, but never have I seen such glorious, inexpressible colorings of a sunset sky as I have witnessed in this wondrous valley of the Nile.
I conscientiously believe that to properly understand the history of this country one should begin in the Delta of the Nile and make a care- ful examination of the various ruins of tombs, temples, monuments, etc., as they go up the Nile, as by this means only will they be enabled to see some of the most ancient specimens of Egyptian architecture belonging to many cities which were in the height of their glory long centuries before Romulus and Remus laid the foundation of Rome. All who come into this valley to acquire a knowledge of Egyptian Architecture, etc., should, therefore, begin their study while coming up through Gizeh, Sakkarah, Medum, The Faj'um, Beni Hassan, Tel el Amarna, Karnak and Luxor to the Island of Philse. In this way each and all will be able to trace the peculiar style of architecture from the earliest Pharaonic age down to the decline of the Roman domination.
Again, before going into the " Land of Egypt," one should have some knowledge of the history of the country, its people, their manners and customs, by reason of which they would enjoy their journeyings more and would come back far better pleased and with 'a clearer under- standing of what they had seen.
Under an awning, especially fitted up for our comfort and enjoy- ment, we passed many pleasant evenings. We had nice cosy, comfortable chairs, tables, rugs, cushions, etc., with a gun-rack quite convenient for our use, as we amused ourselves very often with our rifles and shot guns. We sat and talked on various subjects until we found ourselves yawning, when we retired to sleep. The loud yallough of Hassan to the crew
428 EGYPT, THE CRADLE OF ANCIENT MASONRY.
awakened me and I found the sun flashing its light above the eastern mountains, and on reaching the deck found our boat was under way, with a light air astir, heading for the tall cliffs of Gebel et-Ter. It does not take long to reach the landing place on the north side of this mountain, upon whose flat top is located a Coptic convent. This place is also called Dcr cl-Adi-a^ and by many others Der ct-Bakara^ because in the days gone by travellers desiring to visit the convent were hoisted up by means of a pulley, but now they land to the north of the mountain and walk up steep rocky steps, which form a sort of path to the summit.
But ver}^ little is to be seen when the summit is reached, except the magnificent view of the surrounding country. The village is walled in and contains a number of squalid-looking houses, occupied by monks and laymen, with their wives and children. The monks claim to be shoemakers ; but it seemed to me their principal occupation was that of begging, for no sooner does a boat appear in sight than they rush down to the river and swim off to it, actually fighting their way on board, and beg most lustily for alms, in many instances without a particle of clothing to hide their nakedness, and if the wind is scant they hang around and pester the life out of 3'ou. If the}' are driven off one side of the boat they will very soon appear on the other and in this way will cause you considerable annoyance, so the best thing to do is to give them baksheesh and let them go at their own "sweet will."
The convent, or church, is a ver}' peculiar one, as it is partly under- ground, with the choir and sanctuary cut out of the solid rock. It is well worth a visit. There is a peculiar legend attached to this place. The Arabs believe that all kinds of birds flock to this mountain, once a year, in order to arrange the affairs of the whole feathered creation.
We came down to our boat and got rid of the jostling mendicant crowd, by going on board, after which our sailors punted her off into the stream, the sails were loosed and once more we were sailing along on our journey south. Our dragoman told us that he was glad we had passed this place in safety, for the last time he was sailing by this mountain a very sudden gust of Avind turned the boat upon her beam-end. They were extremely fortunate, however, as not a life had been lost on account of the accident, they having righted her again and continued their voyage, minus some of their guns, etc., that were on the vipper deck, and
EGYPT, THE CRADLE OF ANCIENT MASONRY. 429
he said from that time he was alwa3^s on the look-out for squalls while passing that mountain.
About five or six miles to the south of this convent are the site and ruins of Tehna, with its very large mounds, located about three-fourths of a mile from the river, under the rocky cliffs of the Eastern mountains, which have dwindled down into hills. A trip to this place will prove of more than passing interest to the traveller, because he will be enabled to see side by side, as it were, both the tombs of the earliest Pharaonic age and those that belonged to the very latest period of rock tombs of the Lagadie.
These tombs are built after the style of those at Memphis and con- sist of three distinct parts : ist. The entrance chamber or chambers. 2nd. A very deep shaft. 3rd. The sepulchral vault, wherein is placed the sarcophagus for the mummy alone. The entrances to the different tombs vary in construction, as manj^ of them are decorated with columns, while a great number are without them ; but one thing they nearly all have in common, which is that the walls are all adorned with paintings taken from the daily life of the deceased and his family. It is just from such things as these that we have been enabled to study the manners and customs of these ancient people. The quarries are also very inter- esting places to visit, in fact there are many things in this vicinity which will repay one for the time and trouble expended in visiting them.
After returning from these jaunts we appreciated our comfortable quarters on board our floating home, as we were invariably tired and weary; but the comfort of a cooling bath and a good rest, after our long rambling tramp, added zest to our appetite for dinner, and fitted us to spend the evening on deck under the glittering stars, talking of these most extraor- dinary relics of ancient Egyptian splendor, constituting an ample recom- pense for the additional trifling expense. As there was no wind we tied up for the night, and long after the others had retired I sat up writing to friends at home and arranging my notes of the day for future use. I slept remarkably well and did not awake until Salame told me that the first gong had sounded for breakfast and was surprised on looking out my cabin window to see our boat crawling along, drawn by our sailors on the tow path, and to hear the same old inimitable refrain echoing o'er the waters, so, with rowing and punting we managed to reach Minia.
430 EGYPT, THE CRADLE OF ANCIENT MASONRY.
It is a very pretty and prosperous town one hundred and fifty-three miles from Cairo, very nicely located on the west bank of the river. It contains post and telegraph offices and a railway station. Minia is quite an important town, having a population of over sixteen thousand inhabi- tants, with two fairly good hotels and a number of stores, where one can purchase nearly all they may need, from different varieties of Manches- ter goods, to jams, jellies, patent medicines, etc., etc. A market was held here every Monday, and as we visited this place Saturday we agreed to remain over so that Hassan could buy the necessaries for our journey South. It was here in Minia that the first sugar factory was established in the " Land of Egypt," which is there to-day, not as it used to be, but very much enlarged and improved, with all the latest modern machinery. The inhabitants of this place are not very prepossessing in their appear- ance or their manners, and are generally very dirty, many of them swarming with vermin. Opthalmia and other diseases are quite preva- lent among both sexes.
In many places throughout this country, one out of a score of people you meet, are either totally blind or partially so. I will venture to say that you may travel the wide world over and never in all your wander- ings find so many one-eyed people as j-ou will in the " Land of Egypt." The streets are extremely narrow, and very dusty, Avith no sidewalks, being usually filled with an ill-smelling lot of sullen, unfriendly, thieving people, both men and women.
We spent our Sunday on board the boat, arranging our notes, until the evening, when I went on shore and strolled off down the river, accompanied by Salame. On turning back toward our floating home we met a gentleman who was, like ourselves, out for an evening walk. I entered into conversation with him and found that he was retiirning to his home in England, after having spent a number of years in India. I invited him to dine with us, which invitation he most courteousl}^ accepted, and we spent the rest of the evening and far into the night talking of the " Land of the Vedas," Egypt and Ancient Masonry, of which I shall speak in the next chapter. The next morning we arose early and went on shore to visit the bazar and market-place. Hasson bought what he needed and I purchased a good supply of candles and magnesium wire to be used during our explorations among the tombs and temples farther South.
EGYPT, THE CRADLE OF ANCIENT MASONRY. 431
Everything in the nature of vegetables and fruits, as well as chickens, ducks, geese, turkeys, etc., were very cheap. Hassan bought a very fine sheep for our crew for $4.00, chickens sold for ten cents each, ducks the same, fine live geese from thirty-five cents to half a dollar, pigeons sold for twenty-five cents a dozen, while very large and excellent turkeys sold for seventy-five cents each. What a surging, dirty, clamor- ing crowd they were, yelling and shrieking at the top of their voices, bargaining one with the other for their ware. The burning sun during the time we were there was beating down upon us its fiery rays, and the dust, rising in smothering clouds, from the incessant tramping of feet made the air suffocating, and I was glad to get away from the place to enjoy myself with a good cigar on board the boat, watch the people walking on shore and the various boats and steamers upon the river.
Minia is a very bus}^ place during the cane harvest, when the sugar factories are running. This is the proper time to visit them, to witness the process of extracting the j nice, boiling, etc., which enters largely into the production of sugar. I sat here under the awning smoking and watching the people pass and repass, and the old fellow who keeps guard at the gate of the Khedive's summer palace, and the boats upon the river, until the gong rang for dinner. As there was no wind we concluded to remain at this place over night, on account of which the captain and crew had a grand fastasia, inviting a great many people from the other boats around us. As soon as our men began to beat their drums and tambourines the river bank became crowded with people^ listening to both the vocal and instrumental music, not only of our own crew but that of their friends as well. They blew their pipes and beat their tambourines and drums, singing and dancing and performing various comic and grotesque antics, in fact, having one of the greatest times with this fantasia, burning fire works, etc., that we had ever witnessed. They kept it up for I do not know how long, as I went to bed and slept quietly all through the night.
Shortly after breakfast a light air sprang up that was favorable for us, so our sails were loosed, the boat punted off into the stream, when she soon began to gather headway, and off we go once more to the sounding songs of our sailors and the loud benedictions of the friends of our crew. We passed the thriving little town of Suadi, on the East bank,
432 EGYPT, THE CRADLE OF ANCIENT MASONRY.
with its large sugar plantations ; but we did not stop to examine either the mounds or the ruins of the town, said to be located there, but kept on, sailing by a rather large island, and as the wind began to freshen we soon came up to Ncslat ez-Zawiya, a small village, around which there are many verj' interesting things to be seen. All the way from Suadi to Tel el-Amarna one can find ruins of tombs and temples, as well as very extensive quarries of the Roman period ; but we did not stop to examine any, as we are very anxious to get to the tombs of Beni Hassan and explore them. About five miles from Minia we arrive at and pass Zawiyet el-Mayyitin at which place is located the modern cemetery of Minia.
In viewing their method of disposing of the dead to-day, and the ferrying of the bodies across the river, accompanied by the ululations of the women, will recall to the observer the same peculiar custom of the ancient Egyptians during the Golden Age of Egypt. Three times a 3'ear, in certain months, somewhere about the full of the moon, these people of Minia go over to their dead and make their offerings to them of dates, palm branches, etc. A short distance from here to the South, are the celebrated "Red mounds," a most interesting place to visit on account of the early tombs that were discovered here. It used to be in the days of the twelfth dynasty, possibly earlier, a manufactory of pottery and ala- baster vases, and no doubt many beautiful specimens of the handiwork of these people, have been recovered from the tombs and temples in the different parts of Egypt, which are to be seen to-day, in the various museums throughout the world. A great number are still, doubtless, lying undiscovered beneath the shrouding sands of the desert. The ancient name of this place was Hebu^ and it belonged to the Nome of Mah^ in Upper Egypt.
Beni Hassan was at length reached, and we could see with our glasses the tombs and grottos that have been hollowed out in the side of the mountain. We had been warned by travellers and friends to be careful and have a good watch set both night and da}^ while stopping in this place, for it is noted as being one of the worst places for thieves to be found on the Nile. The villages have been the rendezvous for thieves for many long years ; in fact, the old village was destroyed by order of Ibrahim Pasha, on account of the disreputable character of the inhabi-

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EGYPT, THE CRADLE OF ANCIENT MASONRY. 433
tants ; but they have returned again and rebuilt their hovels, and now the onl}' thing to do is to keep a strict watch for them, both day and night. We gave our men extra baksheesh to be doubly careful during our stay. The tombs are located two miles from where we landed, so we hired don- keys, took candles and magnesium wire along, that we might examine their interior parts. We started upon our way, through palm groves and sand dunes, toward the mountains, our donkey boys making directly for one especial tomb, and that one is decorated with Doric columns. One of the first things we carefully examined was the columns at the entrance of this tomb, which most assuredly astonished us, as they were purely and simpl}' Doric. After very careful examination, both of the outer and interior columns, we most certainly agreed with many other authorities that the Doric Order must have originated in Egypt, and that here in this very tomb were evidences of this fact. Champollin calls them Proto Doric^ or Pre Doric Cobimns. And Lepsius bears out this assertion in his account of these remarkable columns.
The entrance to the first tombs is noted for its two beautiful octag- onal columns, and in the inside chamber four sixteen-edged, fluted columns (referred to above) supporting three very fine painted arches. At the end of this chamber is a recess containing the dilapidated statues of the deceased and his two wives. He was named Ameneviha^ or Afiieni^ after a king of the eleventh dynasty. In the inscription which is upon both sides of the doorway, or entrance to the chamber, is an historical account of himself telling us that he was a General of infantry under Usertesen the First and Governor of the Nome of Sah. The paintings in this tomb are very interesting ; but unfortunately they are not as bright and fresh as when T first saw them some years ago, but still thej' are well worthy a careful study. The next tomb that we visited was that of Khnem-Hetep, or Noum-Hotep, who was a priest of Horns and Anubis.
The pictures in this tomb, as I have said, are deserving of careful study, because, from such paintings only are we able to come to an understanding of the manners and customs of the people living in the Golden Age of Egyptian history ; for here, like in the tomb of Tih, we may see carpenters, boatbuilders, weavers, potters, fullers, bakers, sculp- tors and others working at their trades, while other pictures represent 28
434 EGYPT, THE CRADLE OF ANCIENT MASONRY.
scenes of ploughing, sowing, reaping, harvesting, threshing and storing the grain, etc. Another represents a Nile boat taking the mummy of the deceased to Abydos (the grave of Osiris). There are fishing and hunting scenes, etc., etc., all of which are extremely instructive.
This tomb contains a very interesting painting upon the North wall, representing the immigration of some Semetic tribe, for they all have very prominent aquiline noses and pointed black beards which plainly denotes their nationality. They are clothed differently from the Egyp- tians around them, and are evidently the advance guard of a new race into Egypt. It is the most ancient painting ever discovered, showing the immigration of an Asiatic race which aftervvard played such an important