CHAPTER XXIII.

"TT7TENT by rail, this morning, to Greenwich, noted V V for its Observatory and Hospital. After prom- enading through the little town, which makes a respect- able display of merchandise, we undertook the ascent of tbe steep hill — a very mountain to our overtaxed feet — and half way up, in sight of the little building, where time, so valuable to us poor mortals, is computed, we grew heedless of the flying moments, and sat down to the en- joyment of a fine view and pleasant breeze. The entire day might have been passed agreeably in a lazy loll on the green slope, but for the desire to carry out the morning’s programme in a visit to the Hospital, which accommodates upwards of 2600 old and disabled seamen. The large hall speaks to the praise of Wren, who nobly planned it, as he did every other edifice of which he was the architect. Portraits of naval celebrities adorn the walls ; also, pictures of several brilliant engagements ; Nelson’s glory being the most conspicuously portrayed. Various articles known as his property are on exhibition, among which are the coat he wore when he received the fatal wound on the Victory, and a small piece of wood cut from the spot where he fell. An interesting model of the battle of the Nile is ingeniously carved out of
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wood— upon the water, represented so faithful to nature, the vessels lie grouped around, dealing out the deadly shot. Of the few statues belonging to this room, one of courtly grace and splendid physique amply compensates for the lack of numbers, and whatever may have been the station of the man it honors, England has undoubt- edly lost a noble son. “ Oh ! that marble might be im- bued with life!” Such was the thought that filled my mind as I gazed upon the faultless stone.
On the return trip, by way of variety, we took the boat, stopping first at the Thames tunnel landing. At the dock, a number of ragged urchins met us and fol- lowed on our steps, piteously begging for pennies. How much might be said of the poverty of London, which mingles its spectral feces with the ruddy complexions of those who have never known want, — misery and starva- tion making up one side of the picture ; prosperity and wealth the other ! Some of this squalid wretchedness appears in the midst of the most fashionable quarters — the babe in the mother's arms, with its weird, famished look, and tattered dress, affording a painful contrast with the child of fortune, richly clad. What a vast field for the exercise of charity and pity is this great city !
The descent to the Tunnel, by seventy-five or more steps, impresses the visitor with the stupendousness of the undertaking, and the wonderful amount of skill and energy expended in its construction. Walking half the length of the archway, I tried to work out the problem of the marvellous mechanical achievement, but failed entirely, and was glad to appeal to an officer on duly, EE
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an intelligent man, who kindly gave me the desired in- formation. One can hardly believe that a river flows above, and that there is security under its depths. Surely, no great degree of cheerfulness can ever be felt by those who pass entire days here, engaged in traffic, as it is not only damp, but gloomy, the only light coming from a few scattered gas-jets. Some little stands, with paltry articles for sale, are attended by half-grown girls, pale and sickly in appearance, whose shrill voices are constantly appealing to passers-by, leaving an echo, in the stillness of the place, of the most unearthly character.
Leaving this subterranean passage, and taking another boat, we passed beneath the arches of some of the many noble bridge* that span the Thames, and, on nearing the Tower, gained a good view of Traitor’s Grate, — those gloomy portals that have been crossed by many dejected spirits, weeping over lost happiness and hope. * * *
The pleasure of the day, to me, has been in greeting a friend direct from home, who will soon glide into the footprints left by our party in the old world, and we tender a wish that those same paths may yield him pleasure and profit.
June 18. — As the child seeks frolicsome recreation after the studies of the day are over, so, last evening, felt I inclined, having of late kindled much of deep and stately thought in faithful bondage to the London sights — and where to go? Leaving the boundary of a world of intellect, art and grandeur, we found ourselves at Cremome, just the spot to banish from the mind every
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Stygian shadow that comes from association with things austere and gloomy. Perhaps the summer-night had much to do with attracting us to the picturesque gardens, and Hesper’s rays shining out boldly, promised to appear far lovelier, stealing through covert nooks and flowery haunts. Not far from the entrance, ere the eye had time to rest on the encircling foliage and the lanterns that played down in various tints upon gay groups and isolated couples, my escort was lured to light the “ fra- grant Havana” he held in his hand. The proffer came so blandly sweet, from a pretty damsel presiding at a table, all garlanded in flowers, that to have passed in- differently by those cerulean eyes would have been a breach of politeness to England’s fair charms. A few moments afterwards we joined the many hundreds who were wending their way to the dancing arena. Who that beholds the merry scene, does not think of those spirited lines of Schiller, that great poet, who sometimes left the radiant heights of spiritual verse to stray into trivial thought?
u See how the couples whirl along the Dance’s buoyant tide ;
And scarcely touch with winged feet the floor on which they glide,
Oh ! are they flying shadows, from material forms set free?
Or elfin shapes, whose airy rings the summer moon-beams see ? ”
When tired of the sound of music, and the buzz of voices, we wandered off a short distance, where our attention was attracted by a sign-board, bearing upon it the figure of an old Hermit, so venerable in appearance that it was impossible to refuse his invitation to adven-
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tore. The path to his cave lay first through beds of exquisite flowers ; and then, winding in and out, at some length, through green copses, led us to the desired goal. Other mortals, qurious as ourselves, had ventured to this retired spot, and, having had their fortunes told, were coming away with beaming faces. There sat the Abys- sinian, in his dark cell, wise as Plato, thoughtful as Newton ; his long white locks and beard telling of years of experience, and midnight toil. Before revealing to the visitor the bright or dark side of fate, he scans the features, asks the Christian name and age, and soon there- after sends forth a missive, neatly folded and closely sealed. The moment is an anxious one for the parties interested, as they are surmising whether destiny will cast into their hand a sweet flower, — couleur de rose — whispering love and happiness, or an ugly, rude thorn to wound the heart. Thanks to the smiling star that answered to my name, and made this auspicious prophesy ! “ The Hermit of Central Africa tells thee, after a care- ful search in the constellation, that an unexpected fair fortune will be thine — health, wealth, happiness, and a future partner whose virtues the gods might envy. A model of thy sex, thou shalt be blessed with every earthly joy ! ” On the investment of two more shillings, there was promised to us a vision of lover and sweetheart, in a magical mirror. We asked ourselves, will they be forms of matchless beauty, or of hideous ugliness? Lo! I looked, and swift to my eye appeared a picture of Napoleon III, which dispelled the illusion with me, for I knew that I was not born for a crown — and besides,
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Eugenie’s health is good. The next magic view dis- closed to my friend a fair beauty, glorious as Aurora, with ‘golden locks as treasure. Was it rash to hope that she would prove constant, and not gladden other eyes than his, at least until we had passed beyond the mysteri- ous enclosure, where, in the quiet walk, we might laugh at our folly, still trusting to the enchanted future ?
June 18. — It being our last day in London, each member of the party made a superhuman effort, and managed to reach the breakfast-table at a reasonable hour ; and a beggarly meal it was, like all that have been served since our sojourn at this house. One would suppose that the sole aim of the proprietors was their own emolument, and not the pleasure and comfort of their guests ; but, at this season of the year, when all hotels are crowded, perhaps some allowance should be made ; and, therefore, we will drop the subject, and tell of our brief visit to the South Kensington Museum, where are to be found contributions of art of all ages and of every country. To describe or even enumerate these objects, ornamental and useful, ancient and mod- ern, would require a swift pen, unwearied energy, and more patience than we possess ; however, it will not do to pass in silence the beautiful statuary, the rare, antique jewelry, and the many exquisite paintings in the gallery, which is an inestimable treasure, because the splendid works of Hogarth and Landseer are there. In this val- uable collection are sketches of village life, merry and blithe ; scenes so solemn and pathetic that they might EE*
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start a fountain of tears ; and portraits of rare finish — woman wearing beauty on her brow like a jewel, with love deep-mirrored in her eye ; and little children, like " roseate blossoms,” bright and lovely in the morn of life.
Next, we gave an hour’s ramble to the Zoological Gardens, so rural and attractive with meadow and stream, flowers and cottage, and swarming with animal life. In an enclosure filled with various species of birds there was a very curious one, that stretched its neck to an incredible length. It bore so striking and droll a resemblance to an individual of our acquaintance, that we laughed immoderately; and, indeed, for some mo- ments after witnessing the sight, our spirits were made as “ buoyant as the wild-goose feather.” The idea that human beings can borrow something from the brute- kind is not erroneous, for, in the monkey quarter, it would be an easy matter to shake hands with a brother or sis- ter. If the reader should have any doubt on the sub- ject, a glimpse at these wonderfully intelligent faces and cunning tricks would soon dispel it. These monkeys are familiarly kind, too, and will almost talk, but are inimical to spectacles ; and, on one occasion, a poor man, who was beguiled too near, had his glasses torn from his eyes, his face terribly scratched, and scarcely a hair left on his head. At these gardens everything is mirth- ful and active, except the wild beasts, who are remarka- bly sluggish and sleepy until the feeder comes along. The big, clumsy elephant, who is allowed some freedom, and who tramped like a giant right into our path, mak-
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ing us betake ourselves to the greensward, proved a ser- viceable animal, carrying a lively little party on his back. Their high seats were evidently very much liked, judging from the exulting manner in which they looked down upon us in our lowly condition. When Elephant & Co. were out of the path, we continued our walk, and soon caught sight of a little green canopy, displaying a huge sign, that said Ginger-pop — pray what is that? — ginger-bread, and pies in which there was no ginger, but some apple-sauce — a temptation which, although not promising the choicest kind of food, was not to be re- sisted in our hungry state. * * * * *
A quiet reverie brings the comforting reflection that we have seen nearly the whole of London, during a short sojourn. Besides the places already noted down, others might be added to adorn the picture, — the royal palaces, Buckingham and St. James ; the splendid man- sions of the aristocracy ; the stately club-houses, those great centres of literary, political, military and social life ; the monuments commemorative of great men and events : of the latter, the most notable is that telling of the fiery scourge of 1666, which swept over a large sec- tion of the city in wild fury ; and Temple Bar, associ- ated with those days when traitors 7 heads were suspended there as gory ornaments. This gateway is the boundary of the city proper , and is always open, except on the very rare occasion of a sovereign's passing through it — a for- mality that is time-honored. The approach of the sov- ereign is announced by a herald; the gate is then opened, and the Lord Mayor issues forth and delivers up his
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sword, which is immediately returned to the municipal head. If places and landmarks, in granite and stone, are stamped enduringly upon our minds, so, also, is there pre- served a recollection of what is more perishable — the life which pulses this vast metropolis, seen in the bustling masses that fill the marts, intently pursuing those mag- net-stars, riches and power ; in the luxurious aristocracy, who whirl by in magnificent coaches, on the fashionable squares ; and in the many thousands, boasting of wealth without rank, that thread the great thoroughfares, Re- gent street and Piccadilly. * * * * *
Midnight. — Our party, that had been somewhat scat- tered during the day, met by agreement, at Blanchard's, to dine, and in that comfortable, well-managed restau- rant, soon forgot the skeleton dealings of “ Charing Cross Hotel." Afterwards, we went to Haymarket Theatre, to see Sothern, who was not only (i A Hero of Romance,” but one of the most worthy of the stage. Forgetting the requirements of etiquette, as regards dress for the theatre at this season, we wore our walking costumes, which were plain, indeed, when contrasted with the rich toilettes all around ; decollete dresses, elaborate coiffures, feathers, flowers and diamonds. One of our ladies thoughtlessly took her parasol, and another had care- lessly dropped her gloves. Horror of horrors ! What was to be done ? Fortunately, a gentleman friend, more provident than most of his sex, had an extra pair in his pocket, and he kindly loaned them. Being very much engrossed in the performance, she was for some time bliss- fully ignorant that her hands looked as if they belonged
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to a giantess, who had shrunk away unawares. Sothern obtained a large amount of praise; and every one seemed bewitched by the heroine of the play, a beautiful blonde with golden, wavy tresses. The song of the reapers, returning from the labors of the day, still sounds in my ears, answering the sweet strain of music in my heart* leading me across the ocean to a cherished home.
On our return to the hotel, three of us, resisting fatigue awhile longer, repaired to the supper-room, and drank a farewell-bumper to the old world. Sitting near the window, viewing for the last time the flickering lights of London, and glancing down upog our tiny withered bouquets, their fragrance quite departed, we felt the potency of these lines :
11 Thus may we, as hoars are flying,
To their flight, oar pleasures suit,
Nor regret the blossoms dying,
While we still may taste the fruit. ”
— And this fruit is memory , that saves the broken threads of the web Pleasure has woven for us abroad !
Liverpool, June 19. — Here we are, at the Washing- ton House, after an unpleasant journey, owing to the extreme heat of the day ! We came out of the cars look- ing much like coal-miners, just as black and disgusting,
. — those insidious enemies, dust and cinders, having done such serious damage to the complexions of several of our blondes, that they declare a week’s scrubbing will not relieve them of the ugly coating. A bustling aspect the Liverpool hotels present on the eve of the depar-
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ture of an ocean-steamer — maids rushing frantically up and down, assigning rooms to the newly arrived travel- ers, and herculean porters piling up the luggage many feet high in the lower hall ! Should robbers make* an invasion to-night, what a splendid booty these trunks would make, filled as they are with valuable jewels, silks, laces, satins and trinkets, gathered by the fair Americans that are to sail with us on the Scotia ! All this excitement brings the event of departure very closely to our minds, yet we are endeavoring to look upon it as heroically as possible. It cannot be denied that regret creeps in sadly as our farewell to Europe is whispered, still we are counting the loving hearts that long for our return, and our thoughts, in advance of the morrow, impatiently begin the voyage.
BOYAL MAIL STEAMSHIP SOOTIA.
June 22. — Out upon the vast ocean, with memory and love as precious cables to link us to the land we have left, and the one we seek. We who launched forth in this pet ship of the line, trusting to the chance of a pleasant voyage, had a damper thrown upon our hopes before leaving Queenstown — a heavy rain destroying all prospect of shore perigrinations. Only one lady besides myself was brave enough to visit the deck, to take a last view of the Emerald Isle. Wrapped in our water-proof cloaks, and standing under a mammoth umbrella, we heard loud voices in command — the Captain and his officers, who were covered from head to foot in yellow oil-cloth garments. Curious objects were they, and their
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preparations for rough weather, together with the sudden appearance of a few storm-birds, unnerved us not a lit- tle, suggestive, as they were, of disaster. It is well, however, to exchange a gloomy scene for a bright one, which is to be found in the saloon, where cheerful feces are everywhere visible. Our company embraces much talent, wealth, beauty and distinction. Near Captain Judkins, engaged in animated conversation, is the cele- brated Charlotte Cushman, who has left a bright Italian home for a visit to her own country, where she reigned so long a brilliant star. Her great dramatic genius en- wraps her with glory wherever she goes ; and, to-day, even as she stands among us in private life, I seem to see the queenly character of Catherine, the proud and remorseful Lady Macbeth, and the wild, weird Meg Merriles. . She is accompanied by her friend, Miss Steb- bins, the sculpturess, whose face beams with intelligence and amiability. * * * * * *
June 30. — The worst phase of mol de mer has been visited upon me; and oh! what should I have done without the stewardess, a very Nightingale , in nursing and attention ; the lively, comforting presence of a Penn- sylvania widow, as rich in kindly feeling as in worldly treasure ; and, that best diversion from ship-troubles, the recountal of merry scenes and happy days abroad, by an interesting lady, the wife of a United States naval offi- cer. But thanks are now rife on all lips that we have passed the dangers and discomforts of stormy weather, icebergs and fogs ; have steered up the bay, in splendid
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rig, with the steady rays of sunshine in the blue sky and in our grateful hearts ; and are safely anchored off Jersey City. Yet am I wrong in saying that all are equally happy, for, near me, stand several persons from my own city, who return with sad emotions. They have left dear ones sleeping in distant graves, under the soft Italian sky ; and another grief still more poignant — the intelligence of which was received yesterday through the pilot, and held in close reserve by the passengers — is yet to be disclosed to a gentle wife and mother, who will look vainly for a meeting with her husband. His cup of misfortune was drunk to the dregs, and he passed from this world by a suicidal act. May such sorrow be tempered by heavenly comfort, and the severed ties be reunited on a brighter shore ! For us who have noth- ing to mar our joy, there remains one precious thought, " Home again,” and the expectancy of that sweet word, chanted by angels and sung by mortals — Welcome !
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