CHAPTER XVI.

May 6.
T HE opera of La Juive, most charmingly rendered last night, must ever remain a sweet memory. A tribute of vociferous applause was paid to the acting and singing of Mme. Marie Sass ; and if " honors ” had been divided, as in whist , the tenor would certainly have received an equal share. How deeply interesting the plot, the Jewess clinging to her religious faith even to her mar- tyred end ! The curtain fell as she was being led to the fiery caldron, and the last notes that reached our ears sounded the knell of her sad doom. To dispel gloomy thoughts, we drove to a brilliant cafe, on the Boulevard des Italiens. Amid the flashing lights, the smiling faces at the round tables, the gay voices, and the sound of popping corks, no ghost of trouble ventured a seat at our board.
3Iay 7. — A card of permit admitted us to the Emper- or’s stables, which contain one hundred and forty horses. The stalls, of carved oak, were marked with the names of the animals that occupied them, and their high-sound- ing titles kept us busy wondering what could be the merits to justify such distinction. The * war horse of
Digitized byCnOOQlC
256
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
His Majesty, named after the great Sir Walter Scott, was specially pointed out by the attendant. He is quite old, and, having successfully passed through the din of battle, now finds respite in luxurious ease. The two favorite riding ones are Hero and Marignan. The stud embraces several of American breed, but those from Russia are deserving of highest praise. It is a regret that so many noble specimens are kept in lazy durance, when they could be healthfully and profitably employed in agricultural pursuits. The Empress and the Prince Imperial do not find it necessary to draw from this overwhelming stock, for their stables at D’Orsay contain about the same number, and not inferior in quality. These stables, handsomely embellished, are admirably constructed, having every convenience, and are well managed by a superfluity of grooms.
We passed next to the coach-houses, where the State carriages, about twelve in number, are kept. Besides these, there are sixty other vehicles of different descrip- tions, many of which, like the horses, are seldom ever used. Very attractive is the coach that bore the Emper- or, on the occasion of the opening of the Industrial Exposition of ’57. It is of superb workmanship; but we left its huge magnificence for the wee voiture used by the baby Prince, during the first year of his life, and walked several times around the enchanted ground that held the unique and costly little gem. Its downy cush- ions, covered with white satin, were just fit for tiny bones and dimpled flesh. In glass cases, in an adjoining apartment, hangs the harness, the brightness of the rich
Digitized by ViOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
257
mountings showing the careful attention bestowed on them ; and, in another room, are the saddles, some of which were presented to the Emperor by the Sultan of Turkey, the Embassador of Japan, and other foreign potentates. They are gorgeous in gold and silver and silk embroidery. Finally, we were shown the riding- school. General Fleury’s sons — friends of the young Prince — had just mounted two horses, proud and beau- tiful, with their arched necks and flowing manes.
* * * * * The Prince Imperial receives his first communion to-day. May the church prove a bright fountain to him, yielding draughts of heavenly grace ; and, when earthly springs of joy fail, may its refreshing dews fall gently on his head !
May 9. — It was with great regret that I, this morn- ing, missed the visit of a friend whom I have not seen since the happy days preceding our national troubles, viz.: General Breckinridge, the courteous gentleman and dignified statesman. He will shortly leave for America.
* * * * * About 5 p. M., when the gay world were returning from the Bois, and the Champs Elysces was crowded, there was witnessed a sad accident — a runaway horse, attached to an open barouche, dashing furiously by. The driver held manfully the reins, but was pow- erless to control the terrified animal. On this avenue, where vehicles >vere so numerous, it was, indeed, a mys- tery how he described his zig-zag route, without inflict- ing damage on others. From many a balcony persons
v *
Digitized by VjOOQIC
258
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
followed, with their lorgnettes , liis frantic course, eager to ascertain the fate of the brave woman who sat quietly awaiting the result. But soon came the- tidings of a fatal issue. At Rond Point, where escape seemed pos- sible, the lady, contrary to the advice of the shouting multitude, leaped from the carriage, and sustained a mortal fracture of the skull. Thus, in the midst of an arena teeming with pleasure, a sudden stroke has hurled a being into eternity. Truly, life is like a bubble on the air !
May 10. — Last evening, by lovely moonlight, we went to another of Musard’s concerts, and at its termination, a drive to the Bois was proposed. To see that place, deserted by its frequenters, and under the charm of lunar rays, was a pleasing impromptu idea. Thereupon, sev- eral cockers were summoned, and they soon spirited up their horses, under the promise of that little round sum which ever meets favor in the Frenchman’s eyes. After passing the grand triumphal arch, whose proud summit seemed to meet the blue and favoring sky, our carriages entered the Avenue de PImperatrice, gaining at rapid speed on the gates of the park. Its solitary, moonlit avenues lay open to us, white as snow, the silence being broken only by the hum of insects, or the croaking of frogs. Oh ! beautiful Night ! how lonely is thy spell over mount and plain, valley and lake, and shadowy paths ! How rude for mortal song or jest to disturb the hour of nature’s repose ! The bowers are still, and who, 6ave the moon, has a right to glance into their hidden
Digitized byVjOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
259
recesses, unless it be her own Endymiou, venturing to steal from her a kiss in secret? — and what sound should dare intrude but gentle notes from lute or lyre? For several hours, by the lake-side and in the silent groves, we loitered, until a little time-piece warned us that night had wings as well as day; and it was past twelve o’clock ere we went home to slumber and to dream.
A misty rain set in with the early hours of this morn- ing, and thousands, bent on attending the races at Long- champs, would have been wofully disappointed, had not the clouds broken away at noon and disclosed a perfect day. The whole route was a scene of excitement, with the grandest of equipages, some — four in hand; — the ladies in new spring toilettes ; the fleetest riding animals, and the sporting Jehus, who, seeming to have caught the spirit of the occasion, were challenging every one to a race. Our party reached the Tribune and secured seats just as the jockies, with their horses, made their appearance. They were not one moment behind the appointed time; punctuality and order attending all things in France. All around, bets were being made, and several Englishmen of our party induced us ladies to fall into the fascinating error. My judgment, as a novice, was based rather on the handsome appearance of the animal, or the fair sounding name, than on a knowl- edge of qualities essential to speed. Indeed, it was often more the beauty of the jockey’s costume, than aught else, that influenced my selections. The first race, of sixteen horses , — Prix des Tcrtres — 2000 francs, taught me not to be dazzled and ruled by appearances, as the
Digitized by VjOOQlC
260
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
three horses I had chosen were ingloriously defeated. The same spirit that makes the professional gambler continue to play, after a loss, surely animates those who bet on racing horses, else why did we hear everywhere around, “ Let us try it again ! ” Before the commence- ment of a race, all the numbers of the horses entered appear on a black-board, near the J udge’s stand, and are withdrawn during the race. At the conclusion, the number of the successful horse suddenly flies out, send- ing a thrill of gladness to the winners, and one of sorrow to the losers. The second race , — Prix dn Trocadero — 3000 francs, did not seem to engage as much interest as the one that followed, — the Prix de FEmpereur — 10,000 francs given by his Majesty. To retrieve bad luck was to place my hopes on that noble animal Suzerain , owned by Count de La Grange. The jockey wore cherry and white satin, and came up victorious, to the huzzahs of thousands. At this point, the excitement was tempered by a short interval, when many persons descended from the stand to promenade, and seek refreshment. The scene was one of brilliant animation, as on the velvety lawn, that spread out a mile or more, masses of people were moving to and fro, and many groups were ar- ranging bets for the remaining entries. A racy, though somewhat inelegant quotation, came to our ears ; and as it bore upon the sport of the day, — but not on the condition or appearance of the horses, — it may be given.
“ I like to see the waving grass, before the mower mows it,
I like to see an old grey horse, for when he goes, he goes it.”
Digitized byVnOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
261
The great race, Prix du lac — Handicap — 8,000 francs, proved more interesting than all the others, on account of its large number of horses, viz., eighteen. The Prix de NeuiUy was the last, and sweepstakes were proposed by a member of our party. Of the fifteen horses, I had selected numbers 3 and 11, but 3 being withdrawn, my chances of success were lessened, and the other number seemed ill calculated, from the poor start the animal made, to bring good luck to me. However, in the grand circuit of 2,900 metres, la Tracone made most charming speed, retrieving all that he had lost in the beginning, and winning for rpe the sweepstakes . A pro- longed huzzah was given for the jockey in his rouge et noir ! The Emperor’s absence was accounted for by the announcement that he had gone to Orleans. Our drive home was through the loveliest and greenest part of the Bois. The trees on the borders of the lake bowed under the weight of their pink and white blossoms ; — beds of marguerite and myrtle vine greeted the eye; — the boats were filled with pleasure-seekers ; and one thought alone occupied the mind, coming in the spirit of Eve’s lament, “ Oh ! must I leave thee, Paradise.”
May 11. — Several hours have been pleasantly whiled away at the Palais de l’Industrie, opened within the last few T days, for the exhibition of paintings. Of the many meritorious pictures, the most attractive were Mary Stuart distributing her Jewels the night before her death ; The Adult ress ; Inspiration— 1 \ child at prayer with an angel at her side, — La Picta — the dead Christ,
Digitized by VjOOQIC
262
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
with Mary bending over the body; and The Three Ages, represented by three apples, green, ripe, and withered, and under the fruit, a child, a man in the vigor of life, , and deerepid age. A painting exquisitely fine and delicate was called The Gavotte Step, where the figure of the beautiful Madame Recamier is introduced. Vestris makes Mme. R. repeat a gavotte, which she is to dance the next day with Lady Georgina — Duchess of Bedford — at a ball given by the Duchess of Gordon. The lesson was given to the sound of the harp and the horn. The face of an Italian girl, with eyes of deepest feeling, held many visitors enchanted, and the name of Maria del Marco, so musical in sound, with the beauty of its owner, might have adorned a romance, or inspired a poet.
This evening a dinner-party came off at the house of a friend, and towards its close a disastrous crash of finest glass and porcelain paid the penalty of a German baron’s tricks. He attempted the feat of making a pyramid of decanters and wine-glasses, which was at the first and second trials successful, but the third brought a great fall, to the infinite amusement of the guests, to the mor- tification of him who aimed too high, and to the vexa- tion of the host at the foot of the table, who was utterly unable to suppress a groan. Leaving the scene of shat- tered crystal and porcelain, we repaired to the salon, to listen to some skilful performances on the piano, by the hostess — the keys being moved to a medley of sweetest sound under her graceful and accomplished touch.
Digitized by VnOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
263
May 13. — On the route to the Bois de Vincennes, this bright and beautiful afternoon, we saw the house — a la Fiancee — noted for its connection with the revolution of 1848. From one of its windows was fired the first shot, and then followed the horrors of bloodshed in a furious blast of passion, which has left a mournful echo in this land. We passed the Tower of St. Jacques, one of the grand monuments of Paris, leading the mind to conceive how elaborate and rich was the taste of three centuries ago. This is all that remains of the church of the same name ; and a perfect specimen of Gothic architecture it is, rising from the centre of a square that has all the designs and beauty of a flower-garden! But what a little Eden is the Vincennes Park, its glens redolent of sweet odors, the pansies growing as thick as field-daisies, and every tree in blossom, dropping its feathery burden upon the pathway ! The beauties of the Bois de Bou- logne, for the time, are forgotten in the more simple and natural charms seen here — the bowers of vivid green, formed by the interlaced branches of trees, whose leaves are more delicate than the finest ferns ; the shady paths leading by the side of the rivulet ; the thicket or the wood, which still retains its primitive wildness ; and the large lake, where canopied boats offer pleasant excur- sions. At a short distance from this beautiful sheet of water is a cottage restaurant, with garden walks and shaded recesses ; and nearer its margin are small tables, suggestive of punches, hot or cold — take them as you please. The ducks and swans are so tame that they come up like old friends, treading on your toes, and
Digitized by VnOOQlC
264
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
looking up wistfully for something to eat. All around is a pleasant witchery. It may be the charm of spring, a happy heart, a quiet conscience, kind friends, or grati- tude — N’impoi'te ! it is enough to know
11 ’Twixt joy and joy I be.”
Digitized by VnOOQlC