CHAPTER XIV.

April 6.
T HE morning of the 4th opened bright and lovely for Versailles, whose palace and art-splendors, gardens and natural beauties exhaust the vocabulary of praise. Our party filled a railroad compartment, and so speedily passed the time in gay conversation that dark tunnels, and all the little towns and villages on the route were scarce remarked, until our eyes met that grandest of structures, appropriately dedicated “to all the glories of France.” The visitor, standing in the spacious court facing the palace, is overwhelmed, at the first glance, with the magnificence of the surroundings. The range of buildings forms an irregular square ; the central and oldest one of which, erected by Louis XIII, and embellished with antique trophies, presents to view the balcony that cites one of the proudest and noblest examples ever known of woman’s heroism. It was there that Marie Antoinette appeared to appease the infuriated mob that had burst the gates of Versailles. As the bright sunshine played down on it, in noon-tide splendor, no dark shadow flitted across, save the thought that came to us, of that brave queen’s misfortunes. From the same spot, in the event of a king’s death, is
Digitized byVnOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
229
proclaimed “Le Roi est mort,” and, a moment afterwards, the successor is announced in “Vive le Roi!” Above the balcony is a sort of attic, with the clock that has been set only twice, each time marking the hour when a sovereign expired. On the left side is the chapel, where the marriage of Louis XVI with the beautiful Austrian took place. A large equestrian statue of Louis XIV eclipses all the others that adorn the court, and rightly so, for that invincible monarch wielded the greatest 6 way over Versailles and France, reigning longer than any other of the name of Louis, and only dying, it would seem, when he himself was ready to go. But now for the interior, that great historical museum which stretches out miles of glowing canvas, marking grand military exploits ; chivalric deeds ; court and coronation scenes ; and displaying portraits of all the French kings, the most celebrated warriors, marshals, &c. ! Near the battles of the Crusades is a splendid picture, Godefroi de Bouillon, the chivalric hero of the Cross, who, preferring the title of “ Defender of the Holy Sepulchre,” declined that of “ King of Jerusalem ” — who refused a crown of gold for one of thorns. Another very striking one, is Joan of Arc, whose patriotic zeal brought deliverance to France ; her heroic life falling a willing sacrifice. Two large tear-drops rest on her cheeks, — a baptismal, re- deeming offering of love and devotion to that country, whose crosses she bore to the end as bravely as, in battle, she carried the “ lilies on her standard.” After ex- ploring the scries of rooms — fourteen — on the ground floor, we craved a staff to facilitate our ascent to those T
Digitized by
Google
230
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
salons where the horrors of the Crimean war are por- trayed, in The Stoiming of Sebastopol and The Malakoff y with all their bloody slain. In the long galleries devoted to statuary, busts and full length figures rose up in countless numbers ; but, an incomparable gem — superb in form and feature — was a recumbent statue, bearing the inscription u Beaujolais — Louis Charles d y Orleans, Conte de — 1808.” One also of Joan of Are did proudly prove that it is not the masculine hand alone that can wield the artist’s chisel with perfect grace. In the gallery of the great battles, a painting touched our hearts, bearing upon American military glory; the siege of Yorktown — “ Gen. Washington and Gen. Rocham- beau give the last orders for the attack — October 1781.” In the Salle du Sacre, we found that famous picture by David, — The Coronation of Napoleon and Josephine in the church of Notre Dame , December 2, 1804 ; for which the artist received the sum of twenty thousand dollars. Immediately facing it was one representing Napoleon disbnbuting the Eagles to his Army , December 5, 1804. Among the portraits of queens, there was only one of Marie Antoinette, in which she appeared the impersona- tion of elegance and fashion. The Galerie des Glaces 242 feet in length, and with proportionate breadth and height, is reputed to be one of the most splendid in the world ; and so we thought, as we paced over its polished floor, gazing now at the ceiling, made wondrous by the master-hand of Lebrun ; — then at the beautiful mirrors filling the arches ; the pillars of red marble, and the statues of the gods and goddesses. It must have occurred
Digitized by VnOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
231
to all of us that we were tracing the footsteps of many beautiful favorites of the court ; of thousands of courtiers that had hung on the skirts of royalty ; nay, even of the great monarchs themselves. The gorgeous bed-chamber of Louis XIV was one of the places of greatest interest in the palace, for there stood the bed upon which the king died. It is protected by a gilded railing, but I managed to get near enough to inspect the embroidered satin coverlet, whose sombre tint was quite in unison with iny thoughts. Yet all did not share these reflec- tions, for one of the party exclaimed, u This is the bed in which his Majesty every day received his six-inch wig from the end of a pole ; and this Is the room where he decked himself in diamond-embroidered velvets, before he went out to receive the adulations of thou- sands.” Then the names of La Valliere, Montespan, Maintenon, and others came up in our minds, suggested by a little table, at which he had, doubtless, indited billela-doux to each of these fair ones. The ceiling reflects, in gorgeous coloring, the taste and talent of Paul Veronese, in one of Napoleon’s trophies from classic Italy. Adjoining this apartment is an ante-room, called (Eil de Bccufy where used to meet, in the days of the “ Grand Monarch,” his courtiers and worshipers ; the gifted and beautiful — all in servile subjection to one who, at last, was found to be made of perishable clay. There is no adjective forcible enough to describe the Escalier dc Mctrbrc, composed of various colored marbles. It surely cannot be excelled in France. Rare and magnificent art could have detained us for hours in the
Digitized byknOOQlC
232
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
palace. All of us agreed that the name of Louis Philippe, who did so much towards restoring and embellishing it, should be stamped everywhere about in golden charac- ters ; — for he who worthily ruled this kingdom has well glorified its proudest palace. A ramble over the beau- tiful Tapis Vert , whose verdure was catching the sombre hues of declining day, ended our privileges.
April 8. — The captivating Patti, within the last week, has revived a very old opera — Joan of Arc — in which Verdi does not seem to have bestowed the same force and beauty that distinguishes his other productions. But the plot itself is replete with interest ; and then the influence of the Diva’s voice — whether chanting prayer- ful notes or trilling merrily — is so potent, that a lack of spirit or beauty in the composition is scarcely noticed. The Libretto is not true to history ; but it may be that love , in operatic rendition, is privileged to break down all sorts of barriers. Niccolini, the tenor, admirably seconded the little warbler, whose precious throat of song is held in greater estimation here, it seems, than the crown jewels of France. Dame Rumor whispers that a Marquis of the Imperial household is soon to win the adorable prize.
On the 5th instant, Baron and Baroness Haussman gave a grand reception at the Hotel de Ville, followed by an operatic concert. As I glanced at the worthy Prefect of the Seine I thought how well he merits the admiration of the thousands that meet in his palatial residence ; for is it not conceded that Paris owes much
Digitized by VjOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
233
of its grandeur to his good taste and indefatigable en- ergy? The Baroness, although not beautiful, has an amiable countenance, and her manners arc easy and at- tractive. As the concert was about to commence, several French officers secured us seats in a salon adjoining the reception-room. Very few Americans were present, but chief among our representatives was Professor Morse — his tall, lithe form rising above all others — wearing upon his breast the decorations justly won by his distinguished services. The programme embraced all the principal gems of Le premier jour de bonheur. First, the grand over- ture, by the full orchestra; then, the Air duSommeil , de la 3Iueite y by Mr. Capoul, whose tenor notes fell softly on the ear, making all woman-kind, at least, acknowledge the fascinations of the voice, to say nothing of the per - sonnel of the artist. Next, the Chceur “ P&que Jleuries” of Fra Diavolo, the solo being sung by Mr. Solon ; followed by the Air de V Ambassadrice, by Mme. Cabel, who lias all the melodious trilling of a bird at her command. Succeeding those delicious strains came the lovely Marie Iioze — robed in pure white, like the flower of her name — singing that favorite air of the opera, in which she persouates the Oriental Princess, and mysteriously at- tracting all eyes to the one little spot where she stood, — plaudits breaking in upon her magic tones from time to time. Capoul took up the Romance d’un premier jour 9 and Cabel and Rozc the beautiful Nocturne . Lastly, fragmentary morccaux by the orchestra; after which, the tide of fashion swept through the brilliautly illumi- nated salons , where the hand of art has most lavishly T*
Digitized byVjOOQlC
234
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
scattered her beauties. On ball occasions, the Galerie des Fetes, with thousands of guests, must form an en- chanting picture. Various crowned heads have had honor shown them amid the gilded splendors of the Hotel de Ville ; and, to go back to the days of revo- lution, it was here that the dauntless Lamartine pro- claimed that “ the red flag should not be the flag of France as long as he lived.” Here, too, Robespierre sought to take his own life; but it was not ordained that he who had wielded the rod of such despicable tyranny should escape the guillotine. As we were leav- ing the salon , Baron Haussman rose from a sofa and saluted us in a most gracious manner, and his lady met us on the stairway, as she passed to her private apart- ments, concluding the adieu with a pleasant smile and bow.
April 9. — This month is gladdening every eye with its budding beauty. The nursery gardens in the vicinity have contributed their plants to adorn the public prom- enades. On the Champs Elysees — southern side — vio- lets and pansies are peeping up near the grassy slopes, and, around the fountains at Rond Point, beds of wall- flower yield to the soft breeze a sweet perfume. A very charming drive, at this season, is in the direction of Pont Neuilly, and on the banks of the Seine, where cottages and small villas lie embowered in shrubbery. A plea- sure it is to ride along by calm waters, where trees bend low their branches ; to watch the boys at their mimic sport of sailing tiny boats ; to hear the twitter of the
Digitized byVnOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
235
birds, and feel the peace of all things around. Truly do rural scenes bring out the poetry and sentiment of one’s nature, after a surfeit of fashionable city life.
April 10. — Good Friday ! the saddest day of all the year, to Christians. After leaving our place of worship, we repaired to the church of Saint Eustache, arriving too late, however, to hear the exquisite orchestral music appropriate to the day ; but there was still some melody issuing from that grand organ, reputed to have cost seventy thousand francs ; and a number of persons were yet engaged at prayer. The exterior of the edifice is peculiar, in its single turret, with carved Corinthian pillars, the corresponding one never having been com- pleted. The interior partakes of a rare grandeur in memorials of love to Christ and the saints — paintings commiserating their sorrows, and testifying to their labors. The chapels containing these frescoes are named after the saints, and all of them hold relics. Those of St. Eustache can be seen in the chapel that illustrates passages of his life. A priest sat within, and one of the altar-boys held in his hand a gold crucifix, to which numbers of persons brought moneyed offerings — the poorer classes not failing to contribute their mite. Everything was gloomy, the high altar and the choir being almost entirely draped in black; but a few lighted tapers, imparting a faint glow, relieved, in a measure, the sombre surroundings. The rose-stained windows, the carved pulpit, and the statues of the twelve Apostles are all in accordance with the elaborate decora-
Digitized byCnOOQlC
236
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
tions everywhere to be seen. Among the distinguished dead interred in this church are the poet, Yoiture; the painter, Chas de la Fosse ; Admiral de Tourville, and Chas. David, the architect of the edifice. The tomb, par excellence, is that of Colbert. The statesman is repre- sented kneeling with hands clasped. On the black marble cenotaph the inscription reads, Jean Baptiste Colbert , Ministre d’£tat. Mort en 1683. On each side of the monument is a female figure, in sitting posture, one representing Abundance and the other Fidelity. The former, partially veiled, holds a cornucopia; the latter, looking upward, is drawing her drapery around her, and holds a key in her left hand, — a dog is crouched at her feet. Upon leaving the church, we went to Place des Victoire8 , and saw the equestrian statue of Louis XIY, in the garb of a Roman Emperor ; but, to us, his habiliments seemed more like the trappings of an Indian warrior.
April 1 2 . — Easter Sunday ! The American Episcopal church this morning was crowded. The hymn, "Christ the Lord is risen to-day,” was sung with rejoicing ; and testimonials of that happy thought, in beautiful flowers, decked the sanctuary. The crosses were composed of camelias and white lilac ; and, on the altar canopy, in white and red letters, — formed of delicate flowers — were the words, Bread of Life , typical of the Holy Commun- ion. The sermon by the rector, Doctor Lamson, was able and eloquent, and accorded fully with the holy occasion.
Digitized byVjOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
237
April 14. — With the French, the presenting of Easter- gifts is a custom much like their New Year’s observance. In the stores may be seen a rather startling display of eggs of all sizes, from that of the mammoth ostrich, to the wee shell, not larger than a thimble; and what charming disclosures they make, with their silver, gold and precious stones! There is an old query, “Where is the goose that laid the golden egg ? ” but we would rather know where to locate that motherly old^Hen, that broods over all Paris, dropping donations here and there, and cackling merriest at Easter. To-night Othello’s prayer in plaintive music is a prelude to my honfe-directed orisons. Of what wondrous power is love, and how sweet its angel memory !
April 15. — Finding it impossible to secure seats for the opera of Hamlet, we abandoned our ghostly inclina- tion for something very droll at the Cirque Napoleon, on the Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire. The word Circus, in the United States, is suggestive of a tent with uncomfortable seats, and chilling draughts, that give