CHAPTER VI.

Brussels, November* 18 .
O N leaving Paris yesterday afternoon, we found at the station Mr. Buffum, the accomplished journal- ist, who joined our party, and continued with us nearly all the way to this beautiful capital. A heavy shower of rain set in on our arrival here ; and from the over- cast appearance of the sky, disagreeable weather threat- ens to attend all our journeyings. How unfortunate for one suffering the persecution of chills and fevers, — my sorry condition at this inopportune time and season !
The Hotel de Belle Vue on Place Royale, true to its name, and from its elevated situation, affords a charm- ing view of the city ; for in its vicinity are clustered the finest buildings — the Royal Palace, the Park (affording a beautiful promenade under the shade of fine old trees), the best hotels and private residences. Within a stone’s throw of our location is a statue of the valiant crusader, Godfrey de Bouillon, who laid siege to Jerusalem in 1099, and delivered it from the hands of the Moslems. The warrior is mounted on a noble steed, bearing a shield, and holding aloft a banner that never waved in a worthier cause. But the finest monument of the city is that erected to the memory of the men who fell in the
Digitized by VnOOQlC
96
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
revolutionary struggle of 1830, and which stands in the Place des Martyrs, one of the principal squares. Four kneeling angels surround the base, and the figure of Liberty is its crowning ornament. At the Place de Con- gr£s,' also, a superb monumental column rises to chal- lenge the admiration.
The lower part of the city is much less attractive than the elevated portion, its streets lacking the cleanliness for which Brussels is proverbial ; yet one is constantly reminded of the French capital, and thinks the title of “miniature Paris” aptly applied. The Hotel de Yille is grand in Gothic architecture, its pyramidal tower rising to the giddy height of three hundred and sixty-four feet. We were interested in the paintings within the building, the Gobelin tapestries, and frescoed ceilings. One pecu- liarity of the latter is, that some of the figures are painted with an adroitness and skill that seem to make them shift their position in correspondence with the movements of the spectator. At the south end of the room the sweet, smiling face of a goddess was directed towards us, and upon our moving to the north end (where we expected to get only a back view), imagine our surprise at finding the head of the goddess still fronting us. The guide was evidently amused at my wonderment, and was disposed to compliment me by saying, “Regardez la deesse couchante, couverte de fleurs, — EUe vous aime sans doute , parcequ’elle vous suit tou- jour s avec sex grands yeux bleus” A very finely executed portrait of Maria Therese of Austria interested me more than it otherwise would have done, from having recently
Digitized by VnOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
97
reviewed the life of that Queen in one of Miihlbach’s charming novels. The Grand Place, where the Hotel de Ville stands, contains other objects of interest, — the Maison du Roi, where Charles V signed his abdication; and the bronze statues of Counts Egmont and Horn on one pedestal, erected near the house in front of which they were beheaded. Here is commemorated one of the many cruel and merciless acts of the Duke of Alva, which throughout the countries of Belgium and Holland cry out against the name of that detested tyrant.
I lingered for an hour at the establishment of Mme. Everaert and Sister, — a house rich in its possessions of lace, Brussels, Chantilly and Valenciennes, pleasant reminders of the miracles of that fabric at the Exposi- tion. What a temptation — the shawls, flounces, capes, handkerchiefs, collars, parasol and fan covers, and all other articles that please the vanity of woman! A well-filled purse is needed here, for the polite proprie- tress is quite irresistible.
A visit to the grand and ancient edifice of St. Gudule gratified us far more than the municipal palace we had so recently left. It ranks as one of the most splendid cathedrals erected in the middle ages. Its large square towers and its style of architecture recalled the Notre Dame of Paris. The great attraction of this church is its stained glass, the principal window displaying in gorgeous tints The Last Judgment , by Frans Flo- rins, a Flemish painter. On the north side is a chapel illustrating the Holy Sacrament. In an alcove shut in with glass is a statue of the dead Savior, covered over I
Digitized by VnOOQlC
98
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
with a drapery of gauze, and around it are gathered the figures of saints bearing offerings. A monument to the memory of a Belgian philanthropist, Chanoine Triste, next attracts the eye ; and lastly, the famous carved pul- pit by Verbruggen, representing the expulsion of our first parents from Eden. The figures of Adam and Eve at the base are life-size ; and crowning the whole is the Virgin, with the infant Jesus, endeavoring to overpower the serpent with the cross. Many beautifully decorated altars and paintings complete the richness of the edifice. Our reluctance to leave the sanctuary and its splendors was mollified by the thought that our route would lead us to many other holy temples, ancient and costly.
Who that has sojourned in Europe for a short time has not observed the faithful attendance of the people of Catholic faith at their places of worship, and how close is the tie between rich and poor in the costliest of taber- nacles. On the cold stone before the altar, under the light of tapers and the shadow of the cross, a richly attired personage kneels beside a mendicant; — the fair and innocent child bends in prayer, her garments touching those of an erring sister, seeking forgiveness at the throne of grace; and the laborer in his spotted blouse, leaving his work for a few moments, shows hon- est devotion to his religion : — thus seen, however, does not the poverty of his attire or his stained garments rise to the significance of Joseph’s coat of many colors ?
Tiie Hague, November 20. — The ride from Brussels to this town made no agreeable impressions upon my
Digitized by VnOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
99
mind, perhaps owing to the fact of my being a miserably sick woman from intermittent fever. I enjoyed the sym- pathy of the traveling public; but the Custom-house officers obdurately closed their hearts against me, in that they desired me to alight from the car, and exhibit my- self in conjunction with the luggage. Attempting the dodge of ignorance of the language, I was just ill enough to be spiteful. “ Descendez , s’il vous plait ” was repeated again and again to dull ears, which could not be made to comprehend, and back was sent the response in a most decided tone : “ You must excuse me, sir ; I am ill.” But the importunate man intending not to be out- done in his duty, soon brought to his aid a person who could converse with me in my own tongue. In retalia- tion for their victory I felt inclined to plead lameness, and request them to carry me ; but not weighing two hundred pounds, I fancied they might not object to the task. At last, forced to yield to my persecutors, a de- scent was made just as the cry “en voiture” rang in my ears, and the travelers were issuing in haste from the Bureau. This proved my small triumph, and I took especial delight in saying in tolerably good French : “Bon jour , messieurs — Je vous remercie bicn !” In our compartment we found a pleasant and profitable com - pagnon de voyage in a little Frenchman from Havre, who gave us a foresight of the journey, and cautioned us against a petty imposition practised on through trav- elers by Rotterdam cabmen, who endeavor to make fees by the offer of their vehicles, when the railroad ticket includes the transfer by omnibus. We soon saw’ it ex-
Digitized by VnOOQlC
100
•BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
emplified. Here it may be well to mention another de- ception perpetrated by hotel-keepers, viz. : the candle swindle. Bills are often stretched out to a surprising length with bougies . Mantels have as chief ornaments three or four candlesticks, and though only one candle be consumed, there is a charge for the remainder, which the poor traveler, in a hasty settlement, pays. Even the fair name of Brussels wears the candle stain, proved by the overcharge of that article on our bills.
We are comfortably located at the Belle Yue, in this pretty little town, to all appearances clean and neat. My room looks out on a lovely little garden, whose rem- nant of summer verdure, yesterday baptized with rain, is now glistening under some bright rays of sunshine. May they continue for one day at least to help my suf- fering condition ! A streak of bad luck befell us in the closure of Maurits Huis , where are exhibited the cele- brated pictures of Rembrant’s Anatomical Lesson, and Paul Potter’s Bull, and we had to remain satisfied with engravings of those two master-pieces seen in the salle-a- manger.
The King of Holland is now at his palace, — an an- nouncement that excludes visitors therefrom. It is said that his Majesty pays a visit to the Queen’s palace, desig- nated “ The House in the Woods,” only once a year. Here comment might be made on connubial infelicity which makes inroads upon royalty with the same insidious venom it deals to the common crowd. No earthly throne is so exalted as to be beyond the reach of sorrow.
Our disappointment was great this morning on learn-
Digitized by VnOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
101
ing that our Embassador and all his attaches were absent, as one of the party, bearer of the secret cypher for the United States government, is hunting up Ministers and Consuls. Fortunate are they who hold such missions as to admit of a residence at a point remote from that to which they are accredited. Were this Paris, few would desert their post. The urgent necessity of con- tinuing on our journey deprives us of seeing the forest and the Queen’s palace, which is described as a scene of enchantment, — a picture worthy of the Arabian Nights ; and therefore to imagination must be left its gardens, lakes, and embellishments of art. In a drive through the town, canals were remarked here and there, — an in- disputable water-right Holland largely possesses.
In this country houses seem to rise up out of the water. Little children hang out of windows entirely heedless of danger, and sit on the very brink of the canals, whilst their mothers, bare-footed, are engaged with their brooms. Certainly the protection that shields them is from that High and Holy Power that watches over “ the children of men.” The healthy appearance of the inhabitants, es- pecially the lower classes, is a strong appeal to the pale- faced daughters of America to adopt the duck-mode ot living for a few weeks or months. A good-natured Dutch woman suggested this idea, as I glanced at her rounded face, ruddy cheeks, and muscular arms.
Amsterdam, November 22. — The route from the Hague to this quaint old city lay over a flat country, abounding in wind-mills, causeways and canals. The
I*
r
Digitized by VnOOQlC
102
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
approach to the town of Leiden, with its celebrated uni- versity of five hundred students — among whom are doubtless many youths of our country — awakened an in- terest which could not be gratified in a visit, as inexorable business stood in the way. We caught but a glimpse of Haarlem, whose history can never be forgotten in the memorable siege it sustained against the Duke of Alva> when its brave people suffered to the last extremity before yielding to the bloody and rapacious Spaniard. Added to the necessary horrors of war, alas! how doubly sad it is when conquerors become tyrants to strike again a fallen foe, as was the case when this fam- ine-stricken town surrendered, giving up 57 of her best citizens, and saw the terms of amnesty violated, in the ruthless murder of her garrison and two thousand citizens.
Our eyes took in at a rapid glance a portion of the 50,000 acres of land that were redeemed out of the immense lake of 1,000,000,000 tons of water. The famous engines that accomplished this extraordinary pumping are still to be seen at Haarlem. Upon the flats large herds of cattle were browsing, and every cow was kindly cared for in a comfortable blanket to protect her from the weather. The fit was perfect, and it appeared to us that the matronly hands providing these comforts had taken quite as much pains with the cut and stitch as they would bestow upon garments intended for the little ones of the homestead. * * *
We have taken lodgings at a hotel thoroughly Dutch in name, Brack's Oude Doelen. I find my apartments overlooking a canal, whose turbid water is far from being
Digitized by VnOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
103
a pleasant sight. The bridges are not to be counted in a hasty glance, but one can readily credit the estimate which puts them down at three hundred, and the islands at ninety. This old hotel has been in use two hundred and fifty years, and does not yet look like toppling down : my greatest fear in such an event would arise from its close proximity to the muddy water — a bath in which would not leave me white as snow. The buildings strike one as being very quaint, and deserve the appellation of glass houses, from the number and width of the windows. The bricks with which they are built are exceedingly small, and are laid with great uniformity, showing a vast expenditure of labor and time. The amount of scouring done here in a day is something wonderful, the women seeming to wear away the very stone by the busy application of brushes, and the indomitable will with which they work. They appear on door-step, pavement, and within doors, and verily is their labor plied with a Sampson strength. They wear a peculiar wooden shoe called sabot, which is very suitable to this “ Venice of the North.” I have several times been brushed along by street-sweepers, whose broom-mania always elicits a smile, suggested by the recollection of a song heard in my childhood: “ From Deutschland I come with my light-wares all laden, . . . Buy a
broom! . . . buy a broom!” A picturesque cos-
tume is occasionally met with, and the head-gear or bonnet usually calls forth an ejaculation of wonder ; but what excites the greatest comment is the complexion of the women, for would not a peach in its ripest state
Digitized by VnOOQlC
104
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
pale before their crimson flush ? Much that is good is said of Amsterdam. It has many charitable institutions ; beggars are so few as to be at a premium, and the inhab- itants — whilst not altogether discarding worship at the shrine of Schnapps — are not given to intemperance.
Touching upon the bibulous subject, observation leads to the reflection that some of the European countries set an example to our people worthy of imitation. In the salon as well as in the thoroughfare, there is a com- mendable observance of propriety. Par example, in the gayest capital of the world — Paris — the eye is seldom shocked by the sight of a reeling inebriate, whereas in our large cities such a sight is of no rare occurrence — men of brains and money sinking into a common degradation. Oh ! that America would cast off the abomination of strong and poisonous drink, and welcome the milder substitutes !
We visited a choice collection of paintings bequeathed to the city by the late Mr. Forder, and were particularly struck with two small gems. One was a gallant courtier making love after a fashion that looked enrapturing on canvas. The recipient seemed to be the embodiment of “the love that makes summer-tide all the year long,” and the possessor of “ the heart that is its own heaven.” The other was a Moorish group on the shores of the Mediterranean. In pensive mood they stood : the sea had caught the glow of the setting sun. Then our eyes fell on what was certainly a master-piece, occupying a large space at the head of the room. It represented the Saviour performing the miracles that are so abundantly
Digitized by VnOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
105
told in the chapters of St. Mark. Suppliant women were there with sorrow and agony depicted on their counte- nances ; chained captives ; the blind, and those possessed of unclean spirits. How full of mercy such acts, and ho.w comforting the words : "I come to bind up broken hearts, and to loosen the fetters of captives ! ” Near by was another painting — the pious monks of St. Bernard and their dogs rescuing travelers in the snow. Many other pictures were worthy of a better notice than we could bestow; so having indulged in a general view, we drove to the King’s Palace, situated on the Dam, a large open square.
The Dutch regard the palace as one of the wonders of the world, and so must visitors from distant lands accord to it their warmest admiration. It is built on 13,000 piles, and was erected in 1648. Fortunately for us, his Majesty was absent; and if we lost something at the Hague by his presence, we gained very much here in a visit to the interior of his palace. After entering the lower hall so superbly grand with its walls of Carrara marble, the attendant asked for our signatures which were forthwith inscribed in a royal big book. Hereto- fore it has always been my good luck to meet the politest of guides, and on this occasion our names were bracketed a part — a distinction on my account, so said the guide. “ NHmportc ,” said I, “so the beauties of the palace are not withheld from our gaze.” Every room wore a gorgeous aspect, but principally the private audience chamber, the large and small ao/Ze-d-wiam/er, and the chapel, in which were rich paintings and marble mantels with bas-
Digitized byVnOOQlC
106
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
reliefs most delicately carved. Three scriptural pictures, covering entirely the walls of one saloon, represented Moses and Aaron , — The reading of the Laio at Mount Sinai , — and Solomon praying to God for wisdom . A painting over a doorway so closely imitated sculptured marble, that even a near approach could scarcely remove the illusion. The ball-room is considered the finest in Europe, and its proud ceiling spurns support from pil- lars. What a scene of sumptuous elegance it must present when chivalry and beauty meet on its floor ! The plafond is of rich frescoing ; and the chandeliers of crystal, are very beautiful and light in appearance, being formed of the smallest fragments strung at short dis- tances on wires so delicate, as to be almost invisible. These myriad bits of glass scintillated like gems, and were diamonds to our bewildered eyes. At one end of the room is a colossal figure of Altas, bearing on his shoulders the world , represented by a blue globe, studded with stars. The panelings are all of white marble, and the four elements of the universe, fire, earth, air and water are represented by admirable figures. The atten- tion of the visitor turns from all this splendor to the shattered banners and flags of the eighty years' war, draped on high and black with the dust of time. Gloomily frowning down on the luxury below, these tattered emblems commemorate the valor of thousands that have bled for their country, and in their cobweb aspect are the skeletons of the palace! A painting in the audience chamber, representing the dauntless Van Speyk firing the magazine of his ship, as the Belgians
Digitized by VnOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
107
were about to board it, won our admiration. In the Throne-room was extended to me a royal favor, viz : the invitation to sit in his Majesty's chair ! The com- pliment came direct and flattering, as the attendant in broad English informed me that no other lady had sat there for years. A large eye embroidered in conspicu- ous colors on the back of the royal chair was very awe- striking in its gaze. What is the signification of that eye ? Can it mean the “All-seeing One ” that never sleeps ? If so, how it must ever appeal to the conscience of the King who sits there to wield his sceptre over the Netherlands !
This afternoon we rode through several streets that, strange to say, had no canals ; and in inspecting shop- wares, I was near making the injudicious purchase of a meerschaum, until the label of the case assured me it was of Paris manufacture. In Paris there is a better collection. The drive afforded a view of the prominent features of the city, which frequently elicited the ex- clamation, “ How strange is all this ! ” The docks were a point of interest, filled as they were with vessels of all nations. We descended from the carriage and indulged in a promenade on the quay, — the breeze from the North sea blowing chill and damp, to add discomfort to my shaking frame; and oh ! how I wished just then for the balmy breath of the tropics.
The navigation of the canals is indeed a mystery, for the boats are so huddled together that even a child could step from one to another. Some are clumsy and ugly, and one would hardly suppose them tenanted, were there
Digitized by VnOOQlC
108
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
not ocular evidence of it in the occasional appearance of a man or a woman. About others there is quite an air of gentle life, for we observe a flower-pot, a work-box, or a piece of needle-work. It is to be understood that these boats are homes for many of the Dutch people. Our driver said they were “ as good as houses on land yet we could only think of the incongruous mingling of pigs, poultry and babies in one little cabin ; — but per- haps the maternal head contrives to keep the babies aloof. ******
Now as I write, a little village, Broek — six miles dis- tant — is spoken of, where it is probable the American Consul can be found. Before starting on the expedi- tion it would be a good idea to construct a trap for him, so as to make sure of the game. An accommodating maid — who bewitches me by a few words of English, very grateful to the ear after all the incomprehensible jargon around — has just made up a cheerful fire in the stove, and so bright is its glow that I refuse to leave it for the attractions of Broek — a village reputed to be so clean, and so much on the Turkish order, that even the Emperor Alexander was obliged to take off his shoes ere he entered its doors. Acknowledging an infe- riority to the Emperor — an unworthiness to tread even on imaginary holy ground, and preferring a trip to Pal- estine instead — an impossibility — we cheerfully and wisely conclude to remain at Amsterdam.
November 23. — This morning’s dawn crept on gray and chill, and for a long time I lay in bed exhorting
Digitized by VnOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
109
the sun to come from behind its curtain, and cheer up the gloom of a room at Brack's Doelen. An invitation was extended to me last evening to go and see Blondin ; but I lacked the courage to gaze upon such perilous feats, remembering too well the emotions excited by the extraordinary one at Niagara. Nearly all night a wide- awake spirit possessed me, and so I heard the exquisite chiming of the bells as the hours rolled by. Some sere- nades halted near my window, and in the stillness of the “wee sma’ hours ” there was a charm of sweet music which awakened visions of home, far, far away. How much of profit to the heart does separation from loved ones bring ! It makes us feel the value of one cherished spot, and all that it holds. But should not God be brought into those memories, His claim being greater than all earthly ties, and His home one “not made with hands — eternal in the heavens?” * *
I see this moment, crossing the bridge, two little chil- dren clad in Sunday attire, on their way to church. They are most cunning specimens of miniature women, with their gingham dresses to the feet, white caps with fluted ruffles, brown stuff shawls folded across their breasts and tied behind. They are just the size of my little ones, who I hope, on this Sabbath morn, are seated in dear old Trinity at Washington. * * *
3 I*. M. — Service has just been concluded at the Eng- lish Episcopal chapel, a building as plain and neat as the modest little country churches seen in America. The altar, equally simple, has the British crest above, repre- senting a gold lion crowned, and a white unicorn with j
Digitized by VnOOQlC
110 BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
the inscriptions, Honi soil qui mat ypense , and Dieu d tnon droit . Very impressive were the responses of
the congregation and the singing, unaccompanied by organ. The hymn selected was “Jesus, Savior of my Soul,” the second verse of which — “Other refuge have I none ” — must ever strike a chord in the Chris- tians' heart. The text taken from the 1st chapter of Micah, 13th verse, drew forth an able and eloquent ser- mon and the following prayer was offered with much fervor. “Almighty God, the fountain of all goodness, we humbly beseech thee to bless Albert Edward, Prince of Wales ; the Princess of Wales, and all the royal family : — the King and Queen of the Netherlands and the Prince of Orange. Endue them with thy holy spirit ; enrich them with thy heavenly grace ; prosper them with all happiness ; and bring them to thine everlasting kingdom through Jesus Christ our Lord. Amen.”
****** A few more hours, and I shall bid farewell to Amsterdam, to my pleasant apartment, a parlor in dimensions, which presents quite an Amerir can or English air in the engravings that hang on its walls, viz : Moral education, the father and son, — Reli- gious education , the mother and daughter, — The welcome, and the beautiful one of Erin, farewell. As I look on this picture, the face with its Evangeline type of sad- ness recalls a dear departed friend, — the low forehead, the wealth of hair, and the large lustrous eyes dreamily looking back to the past. Its words so fraught with tenderness read —
Digitized by VnOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
Ill
“ Erin, my country, though sad and forsaken,
In dreams I revisit thy sea-beaten shore,
But alas ! in a far foreign land I awaken,
And sigh for the friends who can meet me no more."
Rotterdam, November 24. — “ Behind time for once,” was the exclamation yesterday afternoon as we drove away at furious speed to reach the railway station. If the term snail could be applied to me, another member of the party who was slow in counting guilders also justly deserved the appellation.
But amidst all our difficulties, rain storm included, we arrived just in time to make a graceful entry into the car, which unlike lime and tide had seemed to wait kindly upon our movements. The only other occu- pant of the compartment was an intelligent Univer- sity law student of Leiden, who spoke passably the English language. And here I shall relate an amus- ing incident that might be construed into a compli- ment to myself. The young man addressed me in these words — “Have you been playing in the city, Madame ?” Thinking I had probably misunderstood him, I requested a repetition of the inquiry, which was granted in a lower tone of voice. The look of ignor- ance upon my countenance evidently confused him, as did the vague reply — “ I have not been loug in Amsterdam ; I am a tourist in this part of the world.” Under continued embarrassment the student explained his mistake in this wise : “ I thought I
was addressing the celebrated actress Fr. Von Lib- yowski, who goes to Rotterdam to fill an engage-
Digitized byknOOQlC
112
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
ment; — pray excuse me!” Yet notwithstanding the explanation made, he still seemed in doubt, looking at me the more critically, and pronouncing the resem- blance most striking. Fearing that I might not deem it a compliment to be compared with, or mistaken for
an actress, he assured me that “Madame Von L
etait bien belle et tres dhtinguee” We laughed off the mistake, and found the student on better acquaintance quite equal to a guide-book in his complete knowledge of the country, &c. Upon nearing the station of Leiden , a waiving of handkerchiefs from fellow students greeted him. Handing me his card, E. W. B . . g — Juris Stu- dens — Leiden, and expressing wishes for our welfare and a safe journey, he glided from our presence, the door scarcely closing upon his form when from my lips irre- sistibly fell the music, “Thou art gone — Thou art gone,” words from a song in the old opera of Amilie. The adieu doubtless proving a relief to him from a mistake that had been so sorely felt, he might have found comfort in another musical strain. “ Thou art gone from my gaze! ” It was argued that a picturesque appearance had much to do with the distinction I had gained, as I was thus described. “A white and lilac cachemire scarf tied over the head — as protection against neuralgia — a jaunty black velvet hat, with plume, a Scotch plaid shawl, and the prettiest red blanket on this side of the Atlantic.” Continuing the journey, we passed Schiedam, of gin-fame, Delft, formerly noted for its pottery ware ; and on arrival at Rotterdam secured rooms at the New Bath Hotel on the quay Boompjes,
Digitized byVnOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
113
Having for the last few days lived with our heads scarcely above water, it seemed but natural to find aqua- tic surroundings here. A perfect forest of masts was visible from my window. The service of this hotel is all that could be desired, as one might infer from our getting an excellent dinner, notwithstanding we arrived an hour after the time for the regular table d'hote. Oppo- site at table sat a quaint old Irish gentleman who kept supplying me with entremets , and kindly handing over everything warm that was brought to him. Finding that we were Americans, he engaged the Col. in a long talk of our country, its commerce, institutions, politics, the late civil troubles, and other topics, and soon dis- covered that he was conversing with a gentleman of ability and intelligence. The old man seemed greatly pleased with the abundant information gained, and as he became more and more enlightened and interested, he would nervously exclaim “quite so! quite so!” Counting the phrase many times I thought he must have been born with it on his lips, or that he had made a bargain with himself to carry it to the grave. He told us sadly, and with a tear in the eye, that lie had been awaiting in vain the arrival of several of his ships from Queenstown, but it was his belief that they had gone down in the recent gales. Almost involuntarily to my mind came the beautiful verse
44 Down to the wlmrres, as the sun goes down, And the daylights’ tumult and dust and din Arc dying away in the busy town,
I go to sec if rav ship comes in.”
J*
Digitized byVnOOQlC
114
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
May the poor -old man at last not feel the burden of these lines still sadder —
“ But she comes not jet, — she will never come.
To gladden mj eyes, and my spirit more.”
A bright fire, and two candles have enabled me to inspect some curious, gloomy old pictures that entirely cover the walls of my room. The subjects are biblical, two of which are Cain killing Abel and Rebekah at the Well ; and over the arch of the fire-place which has no mantel, is a paneling in bright colors representing Deli- lah shearing Sampson.
November 25. — The day has been passed in viewing the town which is better built than Amsterdam, the houses being much more commodious. The hundreds of ships lying at anchor, and the immense docks lining the quay, that were constructed under the direction of Napoleon I, amply attest its maritime importance. What a busy scene was presented ! The women — who seem to do even more work than the men — were sweep- ing hides and bagging wool. We visited the American Consulate, dispatched some business, and thence were escorted by an attach^ to the Cathedral church of St. Lawrence, built 1472. The interior is perfectly plain, but the visitor is impressed with the lofty appearance of the building. The floors are almost entirely taken up with the sunken tablets of stone which mark the resting places of notable dead, each stone bearing a coat of arms, with an inscription. The principal tombs are
Digitized byVnOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
115
those of Admirals de Witt, Rortemaar, and Van Brakel; the first representing a naval engagement in has relief, in which the sculpturing of the ships is nearly as fine as pen or pencil tracing. The figure of the Admiral lies extended, his head resting on a cushion of marble. The organ is as magnificent as its dimensions are great, having 6572 pipes and 90 registers. Outside of the church our eyes met a truly Dutch scene in a fish market, where were congregated numbers of women in smock- frock costume selling the “ finny tribe.” It being market-day, the town wore a lively aspect, and the canals seemed more blocked up than. ever. The dress of the women here slightly differs from that worn by their Amsterdam sisters, the calico short basque being more in vogue among the lower classes. A better and more expensive style of apparel includes a bonnet made of white muslin or lace, and those wonderful serpentine horns, or coils of gilt that protrude from the region of the ear, giving the, wearer a decidedly martial look. One cannot fail to observe their excessive love of self- adornment. Ear-rings of gilt are worn so long as nearly to touch the shoulder, and numerous strings of beads encircle the throat and chest, the dress-body being gener- ally cut away to favor the display.* What a sensation Lc$ HoUandaises would create on any of our fashionable streets ! Our sight-seeing included the Palace of J us- tice, and the bronze statue erected to Erasmus — the Re- former — who was born herein 1467.
Antwerp, November 25. — We commenced our jour-
Digitized by VnOOQlC
116
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
ney to this place by embarking on the Meuse river, a change from railway travel quite acceptable, the scenery being so novel and interesting. At every turn there were wind-mills whose giant fans — like mighty arms — beat and beat the morning breeze ; and to each revolu- tion a little maiden who sat on deck twirled her thumb, to keep time with the movement, as she said ; but the gentlemen thought it subserved a better purpose, viz. : the display of a fair and pretty little dimpled hand. The coast for miles is ornamented with a double row of trees, whose peculiarity consists in their being closely trimmed in pyramidal form ; and now and then appear little low cottages, with red tiling, and others whose roofs are covered with green moss. The dykes with their wicker and brushwood, tali grasses and rushes, have a soft, feathery look, far more agreeable to the eye than a hard, pebbly shore, and are intersected by nu- merous docks and shipyards. Steamers on this river always summon little boats from the shore to take off passengers at different points. There was a detention of twenty minutes at Dordrecht, a town of respectable ap- pearance, and very soon after we were transferred to the cars at Moordyk. The ride by rail to Antwerp afforded a varied scenery of neatly laid out vegetable gardens, dense shrubbery, and hardy pine forests; the latter re- calling familiarly those of our own native land.
In this interesting old Flemish city, comfortable quar- ters can be found at the # Hotel St. Antoine, which has the advantage of a park in its contiguity to Place Verte. Place de Meir is a handsome thoroughfare, finer than
Digitized by VnOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
117
any to be seen in Holland. At 6 £ o’clock we dined at table d’hote, where there were sixty persons present, mostly gentlemen. Such a clattering of foreign tongues and jingling of wine-glasses I had not heard since my arrival in Europe ; and the holy command, “ Love thy neighbor,” seemed to be carried out to its fullest extent in the friendliness everywhere evinced. Surely four languages, independent of English, were distinguishable in that incessant hum. At my side was seated a fair young girl, who had evidently just been relieved from an academic course of study ; and towards the close of the meal her papa jocularly remarked : “ My daughter, I will call this a matrimonial market, and would like to know your choice.” There were black eyes near by sparkling like the bead in the champagne glasses, and she might not have wandered beyond the fourth person on the opposite side, but for the fickle instinct that led her on to the fascinations of a handsome blonde some distance down. By that time an answer was exacted, and by way of compromise between light and shade, she gave this evasive answer to her gray-haired parent: “ If there was one like you, dear papa, as good and noble, that man would be my choice ; but I have cer- tainly not found him in this field, and may not in aU the world.” The papa looked proud and grateful ; but he was nonplussed, and the meal was finished. Nearly all night, and to the disturbance of my orisons, several of these good-looking fellows in an adjoining room “made merry,” whether with champagne, moselle or margoaux, I know not, but either might be made a sub- ject of agreeable dispute.
Digitized by VnOOQlC
118
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
November 26. — Having devoted the entire day to the splendid churches which abound here, we feel like say- ing : “ Of all the spots from which we shall be reft, this one will preserve a holy memory ; ” for who can wander from such shrines unmoved by religious inspira- tion? At many of the street corners are to be seen figures of saints or images of the Virgin, set in niches, or resting against the walls of the houses. Thus an Ave Maria is not confined to the grand old churches, but is heard at almost every corner from the lips of humble worshipers. Some of the houses are very low, with pointed gables, and were erected at the time Ant- werp was held by the Spanish. Many buildings of more recent construction are six and seven stories high. The two little mirrors projecting in front of the windows of the houses are remarked at once by the stranger, — a very economical method of finding out what is going on in the street, no change of position being required to see both ways.
Our guide led us first to the Cathedral of Notre Dame, first in rank of all the churches, and built in 1300. Its lofty spire, four hundred feet high, seems worthy to pierce the bright, golden clouds overhead. The exterior of the building, plainly marked by ravages of time, im- presses the mind more deeply than does a perfectly new structure ; just as the sight of an old ruin turns thought into a channel to unravel mysteries, as gray and ancient as the lichens that cling to its sides. Not far from the front entrance is a memorial of Quentin Matsys the blacksmith, who, true to love and its exaction, won his
Digitized byVnOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
119
way up to an artist’s fame, in order to gain the hand of his lady-love. The iron canopy, so admirably executed, is the work of his anvil. A small stone tablet — a sim- ple monument to his genius — is set in the outer wall of the edifice, and bears upon its face an anvil, chisel, and brush. The Cathedral abounds with aisles to the num- ber of seven. One of the cupolas displays a painting, The Assumption of the Virgin , copied from Rubens’ high-altar piece, by Schut, one of his pupils. At the high altar, with its grand subject, the worshiper, on his bended knees, might commingle with his prayers thanks to God for the genius He gave to earth in Rubens, as this roof shelters his chef d’ceuvres, which are perhaps the most touching of all the pictures that portray the sufferings of Christ. The Elevation of the Cross repre- sents the Savior nailed to the cross, and the Jews raising it to an erect position. Sorrowing women add to the sadness of the scene. The lateral pieces, or wings of the painting, relate to the subject : one representing mounted Roman soldiers with spears, and the two thieves being nailed to the crosses ; the other, Mary and Mary Mag- dalene, with other followers of the Savior to Calvary. The Descent from the Cross — the most renowned of Ru- bens’ paintings — bewilders the beholder in the grand conception of that terrible scene on the Mount, the an- guish and sorrow of which the world can never properly estimate. We stand before the bruised and mangled form, upon which the heaviness of death has fully set- tled, and see the tender removal of " Him crucified ” by Joseph and Nicodemus ; then we direct our eyes to tke
Digitized by VnOOQlC
120
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
agonized mother of Jesus, the faithful Marys, and others who ministered unto Him. Words fail to express our emotion, — what we feel is told in the silence with which we turn away. The wings to this sublime painting fur- nish the salutation of the Virgin, and the presentation of the infant Jesus in the temple. Rubens purchased the ground for his home from the sale of this work. On one side of the Cathedral is the chapel of the Holy Sacrament, with an altar composed of black, gray and white marble, ornamented with gilt, and on the oppo- site side, the chapel of the Virgin constructed of white marble and decorated with gilded garlands. A rare specimen of painting on marble is the head of Christ by Leonardo da Vinci. The tomb of Ambrosius Capello, bishop of Notre Dame when Antwerp was under Span- ish rule, is one of exquisite sculpturing with its life-like marble figure, robed in ecclesiastical vestments— a per- fect imitation of velvet and lace. A large and beautiful painting portrays the death of the Virgin. Under it, in a narrow panel, is a white picture producing the effect of marble, and resembling one to be seen in the Amster- dam Palace. The painted figures stand out in the bold relief of statuary, and the deception to the mind of the spectator is as complete, as the artist’s conception is wonderful. The subject of this strange and effective picture is the Marriage of the Virgin. A finely carved marble illustrating The Holy Trinity especially attracted our notice ; also, the Gothic stalls for the priests, and the oak wood choir with its carvings. The church of St. Andrew contains a fine altar sculptured bv Verbrug-
Digitized by VnOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
121
gen, and the finest pulpit in the Netherlands, the subject being the miraculous draught of the fishes. St. Andrew the patron saint of the church — instead of St. John, ac- cording to scripture — is in the boat with St. Peter, and the Savior, walking on the water appears to them. The undulations of the water are skilfully wrought, as are the shells lying on the shore, and a basket, the perfec- tion of wicker, filled with fishes. The bursting nets and the well-stored boat testify to the bounteous plenty from the Divine Command. A large painting of the Crucifixion of St. Andrew by Ruben’s master adorns the edifice ; also, the portrait of Marie Stuart, a face fitly chosen to grace the monument of two English ladies who had served that unhappy Queen just prior to her execution. Near the high altar are relics, sent from Rome, of different saints, — principally fragments of bones en- closed in niches of marble about the size of a common prayer-book.
The church of St. Augustine has for its altar-piece the celebrated picture of Rubens, The mystical marriage of St. Catherine . Saint Catherine surrounded by a host of saints, whose names are brightest in scripture, kneels to receive the ring from Jesus, the infant being sup- ported by Mary. The painting is on canvas, and in this respect differs from all the others of the Great Master. In it, Rubens has copied the faces of his two wives, his own, and those of his grandfather and son. His family are thus handed down by his imperishable genius, and will ever live in holy association. Napoleon bore away this picture among his many prizes, and it K
Digitized by VnOOQlC
122
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
was not restored to the church until after the battle of Waterloo. In the interim, its place was supplied by the Ecstasy of St. Augustine, by Vandyck,a famous picture. How many sacred shrines have suffered by the ruthless hand of war and insurrection ! The martyrdom of St. Ap - polina, by Jordaens, is another triumph of the Flemish school. A large side chapel contains some rare and exqui- sitely fine old paintings. The figures appear to stand out from the burnished background which looks as though it was illumined by a strong light, — certainly the paint- er’s brush here dropped its richest coloring to vie with the golden hue !
St. Jacques is one of the costliest churches in Antwerp, and is perhaps the most attractive; its embellishments displaying a splendor rarely surpassed. The side chapels owned by distinguished families are constructed chiefly of marble; and the walls adorned with paintings and statuary, should not fail to arrest the gaze of the most indifferent beholder. But how little is the genius of the past appreciated by the majority of tourists ! Often is memory ^oo sluggish to preserve even a skeleton- picture of the rich treat that has . been afforded. Thus are privileges abused by many who have means at their command, whilst minds, intellectual and appreciative are denied the pleasure of a search after the beautiful. These, alas ! can only indulge in a mental view of the works of genius through the medium of books, catching as it were the sunset-gleam, whilst others walk amid the veritable splendors of noon-day ! The first chapel we entered on the right, proved one of interest to my escort
Digitized by VnOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
123
who unexpectedly saw the tomb of some of his ancestors, the family crest on the tablet corresponding precisely to his own. Shortly afterwards, the priest who opened for us Rubens’ chapel, was attracted by the name in the Col.’s hat, and remarked — “If that is your name Sir, permit me to lead you to a monument not far from the high altar.” There was read the following inscription “Anna Guise, widow of the 6th son of George Blount, Knight Baronet— died 1752.” The chapel erected by Rubens fifteen years prior to his death is the chief spot of interest in the church, it being his burial place. A slab of marble in the floor marks where he lies, and near him rest his two wives, and all the other members of his direct family except his mother. On the right and left of the chapel are handsome monuments, female figures beautifully executed ; and over the marble altar hangs the picture of the Holy Trinity, in which he again paints the faces of his kindred. During the French revolution this chapel was the only one spared by the conqueror. We looked in a spirit of quiet and glad content at one massive treasure which resisted even the great Napoleon. It was the magnificent chef-d’ceuiTe of Vervoort, The elevation of the Cross , sculptural in high relief out of a single block of stone. Next in the order of our route, came St. Paul’s church. On the outside is a representation of Mount Calvary, calculated to excite a feeling of mingled pity and horror. The crucifix is erected on a high eminence of rock, and stat- ues of saints, prophets and priests in various attitudes surround it. All the stone-work was carved by the
Digitized byVnOOQlC
124
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
monks. Winding our steps around this jutting emin- ence into a narrow and dark passage, we saw a woman kneeling in prayer before a small aperture cut in the rock. Not wishing to disturb her devotions, oui; guide led us off hurriedly to the opposite side, where he re- quested me to look through a small grated space, not exceeding the size of a man’s hand. This was a grotto, said to be an imitation of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusa- lem. Out of the dim, sepulchral shadows I descried a recumbent figure representing Christ as he lay after burial. Many offerings were strewn around, such as gilt crowns, garlands and wreaths. A feeble ray of light was sufficient to reveal the sorrow-stricken face of the old woman we had just left, who several times sighed as if from the very depths of her soul. She had sought a shrine, very sad,, lonely and silent, at which to un- burden her heart. I hastened away although influenced to linger, and forthwith turned my eyes to something very fierce contrasted with the peaceful sepulchre. A painted wood-carving attached to the face of the rock represented hell with its lake of fire, and its victims writhing under torments, — a fearful picture of the terri- ble wrath that cometh to sinners !
We stopped at the entrance of the church to allow a funeral procession to pass in ; the coffin being borne on the shoulders of priests. The strange sight outside, and the solemn scene within impressed jus gloomily; and not wishing to disturb the last rites being paid the dead, we walked very noiselessly around, directing a rapid glance at the best paintings, viz: The Scourging of
Digitized by VnOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST. 125
Christy and The Adoration of the Shepherds , by Rubens ; The Savior bearing the Cross, by Vandyck ; The Ship- wreck of Saint Paul by Peckar, and The Seven Works oj Mercy by Teniers (father). The confessional boxes were carved by Verbruggen who seems to have left in almost every church a monument of his work. At the Museum is a large collection of pictures comprising the choicest specimens of the masters of the Flemish school. The Adoration of the Magi ; St. Theresa interceding for the souls in Purgatory , and The Crucifixion of Christ between the Thieves, by Rubens, are among the most meritorious. The latter scene is portrayed in its worst horrors. A soldier has broken the limb of one of the malefactors, who in his agony has wrenched half of his foot from the cross, the nail standing out, wet with the gory stream that trickles from the torn limb. The executioner is plunging his spear into the Savior’s side, and the Mag- dalen is crouched in an agony of sorrow at his feet. The dead Christ extended on a stone table, covered with straw — a pictufe of exquisite pathos — is by the same master ; also The Holy Trinity, another example of that peculiar art which makes* an object look towards the spectator whatever his position may be. My chief in- terest hung about a half-finished picture on an easel, which had been left but a few moments before by the artist who, having no hands, is executing this fine speci- men with his toes. Thus, we see that nothing is im- possible with necessity. Until that moment I had never dreamed that a foot could attain to such artistic fame, thinking only of the ordinary uses it subserves ; — K*
Digitized by L^ooQle
126
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
of the functions it performs for the maintenance of health ; of the wearisome marches it accomplishes ; and of the grace and beauty with which it completes the human form, as designed by our Heavenly Maker. Several citizens of the United States have purchased pictures of this remarkable artist. We hoped that he would return to the museum ere we left, and that we would thus be enabled to witness the extraordinary feat; but even the vacant stool and the half-drawn sketch had power to impress us with his strange merit, and to elicit another paean for the name of Valu. The Siege of Antwerp , a painting of huge dimen- sions, presented a woful scene, calling up out of the “ long ago,” the wrath that fired the hearts of men ; and The Death of Rubens formed also an impressive scene, the second wife in her widowed grief being one of the most conspicuous figures. The Descent from the Cross by Quentin Matsys is singled out as one of the works of merit by which he secured his matrimonial prize. The inexorable father of the maiden, — Frans Floris — found himself at last excelled in art by the poor blacksmith, turned painter. The Orucifixion } a masterly conception is by Antoine Van Dyck ; The Resurrection by M. de Vos; — the master of Rubens’ master — The Boors smok- ing by Teniers ; The Nativity , and The Fallen Angels by Floris. There is a fine bust in black marble of Rubens, and a chair that once belonged to him. Indeed the very name of the dead master creates a sacred spell among the people of this land! Not far from the museum stands a marble statue of Vandyck.
Digitized by VnOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
127
We bestowed a passing glance at the Hotel de Ville, its stone-work and gilt tracery, and concluded our ex- plorations at a lace-venders, where articles sell much cheaper than at Brussels. The bells chime in this city as in Amsterdam ; and last evening they had all the soft tones of a musical-box. How sweetly, in these coun- tries, does night steal away, and like a “ mystic hymn” lend heavenly thoughts to the soul. Curiosity prompted us to look over the list of American names registered in a fine album belonging to the hotel, and we found those of a number of friends who had wandered to this inter- esting land. How like a magnet is the name of one’s home, never failing to attract amid all the magnificence of foreign scenes !
Brussels, November 27. — Back in Brussels, and at the Belle Vue ! The pleasant sunshine invited a stroll in the Park, and we found an hour of quiet relief after the excitqpient and fatigue of nearly ten days’ travel. Such a retreat, with its sweet tranquility, affords not only a grateful abandon of the body, but repose to the busy and overtaxed mind. A lack of time and a desire to visit the Wiertz museum of paintings cut short our stay in the Park.
We drove first to the United States Legation, where we were cordially received by Judge Goodrich; and thence to the museum, a lovely spot situated on the brow of a hill, accessible only by a footpath. There seemed to be a classic spell over all the surroundings of the place ; in the bright verdure of the height ; in its geo-
Digitized by VnOOQlC
128
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
graphical garden, laid out to indicate the routes to some of the principal European cities ; and in its old ivy- wreathed columns, that might pass for the ruins of a Grecian or Roman temple. It was the conception of the artist to enclose his works in a reproduction of one of the temples of Paestum ; and here are collected some of the most marvellous paintings of modern times. Some interest might be felt in the painter before the works of his genius have been seen, and that interest must increase as his history and character are told. Without guide or help in his earliest years, but with an inspiration of soul to follow the glorious art, he fought every obstacle that crossed his path. Disappointments he cast aside, as he would have dismissed an evil genius, and yearned for the gilded heights of fame, where he hoped one day to be crowned with proudest laurels. How often does stern reality thrust into our paths a stumbling-block to dwarf our noblest efforts and blunt our finest sentiments ! Not so #with this young artist! At the age of fourteen, at Antwerp, whither his desire, dazzled by the bright genius of Ru- bens, had led him, he took up his abode in a very hum- ble place — a sort of cell or granary, not impervious to the snows and frosts of winter. There he worked away in solitude, with nought to illumine his path save the bright and beautiful dream of success, born of will, en- ergy and hope. His dreams were colored with the re- splendent glory of Michael Angelo and Rubens, while an innate literary and musical taste inspired him with Corneille and Mosart. Then sickness came to abate his
Digitized by VnOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
129
fervor and dull his enthusiasm. That passed ; he awoke to a renewal of his occupation. It is recorded of him that, one day at Antwerp, when still the creature of poverty, he was offered by an amateur a good price for one of his sketches, and that he quickly replied, " Keep your gold! this is the death of the artist” — words freighted with truth, as his application to the art did one day prove. He was content to live upon the small pension of one hundred florins allowed by the Belgian government ; and placing the strongest barriers against whatever might tempt him from his studious seclusion, amidst the jeers and sarcasm of some of his fellow-men, he faithfully followed the rigid course of life that had been laid out with a dignity that recoiled upon his as- sailants. The paramount idea and desire of Wiertz was to retain his paintings, believing that the work of im- provement must ever go on ; and therefore even after his fame had been fully established, he never sold any save from necessity. When he received the Emperor of Russia’s offer of three hundred thousand francs for his Triumph of Christ , he refused to sell, giving as excuse his belief that to-morrow he would find something to correct. Upon a meagre sum Wiertz traveled to Paris, where he prosecuted the study of art; and thence to Rome, Venice, Naples, Florence and Milan. At Rome lie wrote a eulogy upon Rubens, which proudly chal- lenged the admiration and applause of the public. From time to time he answered the criticisms of his enemies in various pamphlets.
Thus did this wonderful artist, poet and musician —
Digitized by VnOOQlC
130
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
a combination of talent not often met with — struggle through most of his life, without fortune, counsel, aid or protection. To give up his art was to him equiva- lent to death, and he feared death only because it would cut short those wonderful creations with which he in- tended to endow his canvas. One year ago ended his mortal career ; and the artist, in the dream-land of his poetic fancies, has doubtless found more garlands of happiness than were wont to spring up about his earthly pathway. In the paintings bequeathed to the Belgian government, he has left a monument which future gen- erations will love to cherish ; and over the entrance to the museum might be written One Wiertz , — for when shall come another?
The attendant of the museum discovering that I was an enthusiastic admirer of the artist and his works, took great pleasure in relating little incidents in the life of the deceased. He led me to his portrait, three-quarters length, and in profile, the face of which is classically sad and tending to the spiritual. The artist is repre- sented clad entirely in black, relieved by a narrow white collar. The arms are folded across his breast, one hand holding a black drapery that falls from the right shoul- der. A pallette and brush are introduced, and on the background of the canvas can be distinguished the words — “La critique en matierc de pcinture est-elle possi- ble ?” — the title of his pamphlet published in 1851. Above the portrait was a smaller one of Wiertz’s mother, painted by himself. Her calico gown, a ruffled cap and pin-a-fore, though tastefully adjusted, indicated an hum-
Digitized by VnOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
131
ble position. On exhibition were various medals pre- sented to him by crowned heads, also his flute and the other musical instruments he played.
One can scarcely describe the impression felt on enter- ing the painting gallery, for the four walls treat of im- posing, awe-striking subjects so extravagantly dealt with, as almost to defy analysis or comparison ; and with what great variety of subject, — war, hell, Christ’s sufferings and victory, the past, present and future, all spread out seemingly to lead the mind into a train of serious thought! Here and there, amidst the painful and the sublime, appeared a gem of beauty simple enough in subject, to touch the fancy of a little child, and once or twice I was glad to turn from the thorns to the roses. Le Triomphe du Christ is a painting of such merit as would vanquish a world of Wiertz’ enemies, just as the subject shows the defeat of the legions of hell by Christ. How gigantic a labor and conception to paint countless numbers in combat, with all the fierce passions stamped upon their countenances ; — the arch-fiend and leader himself resisting the flaming sword and the thunder-bolts of heaven, until before him the vision of the cross appears wrapped in celestial glory ! Satan has raised his right arm to protect his eyes from the divine light, that condemns him to the burning lake below. Then the other figures ! The arch-angel Michael with spear, wild and grand in his destroying agency, — the angels near the cross chanting the hozanna, - -the Seraphim armed with thunders, and those sound- ing the trumpet-notes of victory, — the mangled bodies
Digitized by VnOOQlC
132
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
fallen under the lance of St. Michael, — the condemned masses writhing and burning in the flames ; and high above all this despair and agony, the immortal victim of the sins of men, with a look of serenity amid the sufferings of Golgotha !
This picture reflects in a measure the sentiment of Paradise Lost, and is a faithful expression of the Savior’s Passion as recorded in the Bible. Le phare de Golgotha . has a mysterious power also, and partakes of the same character as Le Triomphe , in the struggle between the powers of light and darkness. Le dernier Canon , rep- resented by a goddess and her train, portrays the triumphant march of civilization despite all obstacles. The scene of carnage, and all the attendant evils belong to this age, but the pleasant contrast of love, amity, progress and right is claimed for the future. Some of Wiertz’ figures are from twenty to thirty feet in height. My eye caught a glimpse of a giant form, the limbs of which seemed to find no limits : — it was too big for an hour’s study, and it remained on the wall a monstrous mystery. There was a mythological series besides the Homeric, and the one which most attracted our notice was La forge de Vvlcain. The group is formed by Vulcan, Venus and Cupid. The lame god sits on his anvil. Venus the blonde and beautiful daughter of the sea, as nude as when she rose from the waves, ap- pears to her husband with some indiscreet demand, and with blandishments and caresses wears a most irresisti- ble look. One arm is cast around his neck, and with ‘her left hand, she receives grapes from a chalice tendered
Digitized by VnOOQlC
BUBBLES AND BALLAST.
133
bv glowing nymphs, and wine from golden flagons with which to tempt and seduce her ugly spouse. On Y ul- can’s knee rests Cupid, a pouting little god who seems intent on seeing Venus victorious. La scconde apres la mort is treated in this wise. A mortal having put on immortality is ascending to the skies. Stars and planets are passed in his flight, and from his grasp has fallen a