CHAPTER II.

Liverpool, October 19.
T ERRA FIRMA was reached last evening at half- past six o ’clock. The docks were lighted, and there was a precipitate rush on the part of the passengers to secure carriages and hasten on to the hotels. My escort led me to a peculiar-looking conveyance called a hansom — a cosy little novelty to my American eyes — and the order was given to drive without delay to the Adelphi. For a moment I knew not how the horse was managed, as to me inside it seemed to be guided by instinct ; but I soon discovered that it was no Pegasus nag, for the reins passed over the top of the vehicle, and the driver sat aloft at the extreme rear. Passengers for the Russia , advertised to sail the next day, had filled the Adelphi and the Washington House, and our only chance was at Queen’s Hotel, where a few moments later I had the pleasure of meeting my ship- mate, Miss T . Finding her in distress, sharing the
fate of those unprovided for, I invited her to occupy my domicile, glad of such cheerful company in so dingy and sombre a room. The lack of comfort drove us to the
reading-room below. Mr. V left shortly after to
attend to some matters of business, and as Liverpool
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seemed a blank within doors, and our desire to survey the city was great, we accepted the escort of an English gentleman, Mr. Archibald — a person of distinguished appearance, tall and portly, wearing a suit of black vel- vet, that contrasted well with his ruddy complexion and snowy locks. He crossed the Atlantic in the first ocean steamship, and on this trip of the Java has just com- pleted his forty-ninth voyage.
We proceeded three abreast through the principal streets, attracting not a little attention from the fact that we were appropriating the entire sidewalk. A heavy mist having settled around, wrappings were brought into requisition. Not less than a dozen beggar-women held out their hauds for charity during our peregrinations, and pitiful objects were they in their tattered garments. The buildings are large and substantially constructed, the stores well-stocked with goods of superior quality, and the streets admirably illuminated by trios of gas- jets — like unto a three-leafed clover — which cast a much more brilliant light than the single lamps in use in the
United States. The promenade ended, Miss T and
I sought our room, which we vainly endeavored to light up with two miserable candles. The fire of a badly ventilated stove had died out, and in the chill and gloom we sat down to write to the loved ones at home.
Though it was past midnight when we retired, we found it impossible to get to sleep, for the stately old- fashioned bed, with its dark hangings, seemed to fasten us in to become the victims of burglary. A moment alter, just under the window, amidst a scuttle and clamor,
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came the cry of “ Murder ! murder !” from a female voice, and this additional horror settled the question of sleep for the remainder of the night. Wearily did we ponder over murderous weapons and throat-clutchings, wondering if all other sojourners in Liverpool experi- enced the same trials. We, at least, shall carry away an idea of its demoralization and wickedness.
But shadows do not last forever, for now the morn- ing’s light is streaming in to revive our spirits, as well as the colors of the old faded carpet. Soon shall we turn our backs upon every discomfort by taking the cars
to London. Miss T , in her eagerness to see the
great metropolis, has decided to leave for the present her party, the family of Professor Hall, to accom- pany me.
London, October 19. — Thanks for the wonderful pro- pelling power that transports us so swiftly from place to place, for here we are in this far-famed city, after the travel of only six or seven hours !
Before leaving Liverpool we caught a glimpse of St. George’s Hall, a massive and imposing edifice; also, the statue of Lord Nelson. As I write, I feel that I have just completed one of the most agreeable journeys of my life. At eight A. M., comfortably ensconced in a rail- way compartment — not worthy to be called a car, as its capacity is limited to six persons — we had scarcely left the station, losing sight of bricks and mortar, when a lovely region of country was gained, every acre of which proved a garden-spot. England cannot be described in
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words — tame and inadequate are they to express the great enjoyment afforded by her rural and picturesque scenery. One longs to be an artist of some merit, to bear off other pictures than those stamped on memory. Although it is the month of October, when the leaves and herbage in America are changed into the “ sere and yellow” and " russet brown,” nature here preserves her verdure, only an occasional tint of crimson in rich and vivid coloring peering out of the green in pleasing con- trast. Here and there are magnificent lawns, with stately trees, fields and groves, and neatly trimmed hedges. In the distance the splendid turretted castle appears, and nearer to the eye, the "lowly thatched cottage,” which awakens memories of the sweetest song in the world, “ Home, Sweet Home.” Surely the Eng- lish lord in his castle is not more richly surrounded by nature’s charms than the humble cottager. The word Happiness should be inscribed over the portals of such homes; for are they not a Paradise far more beautiful than any city in its costliest splendor could give to man? Yet, in hurriedly glancing at these Elysian spots, the thought came, Alas ! may not the “ serpent’s trail ” be among the fairest flowers; and whilst nature revels out- side, may there not be sorrow at the hearth-stone and in the heart’s core? Whether this be true or not, there was something enchanting in every view, and “ merrie England” did her utmost to convince us that earth is very lovely, and also to make us the more appreciative of the bounteous blessings vouchsafed by a Heavenly hand. We shall certainly carry to “ dream-land ” to-
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night the remembrance of the charming panorama dis- closed in the last few hours — a bright Arcadian vision ! a land teeming with beauty; green meadows silver- threaded by streams of sparkling water, along whose borders comes the sound of “ lowing kine ” answering themselves with their own tinkling bells ; the fresh green moss and bright flowers ; the laborer at his daily work ; the song of birds to the sweet refrain of Rejoice and give praise ; the calm sky crowning and bathing in blue ether the scene below, and the joyous sunshine with not one fickle ray ! In this range of pleasant scenes, the spirit of romance has the power to enchain so closely that one knows not how to detach the links.
Upon reaching the Euston Station the conductor un- locked the door, and ‘liberated us from imprisonment. Why do they adopt this mode of holding travelers in durance close and fast? My brother-in-law from Paris had arrived, and a few hurried words convinced me of the necessity of his speedy return. Although regretting so hasty a departure, I had to yield to marching orders, the difficulty in the way being a “ Report on the Muni- tions of War,” which must be completed in a few days, as the Exposition is fast drawing to its close. But what was to become of my friend Miss T ? it were a bar-
barous act to leave her in the great city alone ! Being thus forced to depart so precipitately, I suppressed my wrath with the determination to vent it on the Colonel at some future day, when he will surely find that to contend against a woman’s will is to war with truth and right. A royal fate, it would seem, brought me again
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to a hotel named for the Queen, it being the nearest and most convenient place to brush off the dust of travel.
Mr. Y joined us at dinner, and afterwards took leave
of an encumbrance which he had patiently endured for ten days or more; but for the kind care bestowed, I should be willing to engage his services for the return trip.
See, the thought of home and a return has intruded itself even now ! I am not unlike the bird that soars to a strange clime, but whose wings are never folded until it reaches the home-nest again.
Paris, Oct . 20. — I take up my pencil at the railway station, in order to promote a patient waiting on Custom- house officers, who are busily toiling away at hundreds of pieces of luggage. Last evening, in London, my trunks were deemed so heavy a burden that the pocket had to pay the penalty; the Bible injunction “Why take ye thought for raiment ” being recalled as salutary warning for the future. Rightly does the extravagant stock of wearing apparel of these days bring down the maledictions of provoked officials ; and would not such an exhibition surprise our great, great grandmothers, if they were liv- ing, as much as their economical and modest wardrobe would dissatisfy us ? Let those who contemplate trav- eling on the Continent heed the advice of one who has already paid dearly for experience. Just prior to leav- ing London we sauntered along leisurely to see the shops, many of which are truly magnificent ; stopped at Exeter Hall, a quiet, home-like place, where we found D
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Miss T. enjoying a cup of coffee, and endeavoring to make the best of her loneliness. On the table lay an accumulation of papers and journals, which I greeted like old friends — read some items of American news, viz : a notice of the marriage of Mr. Howard, of the English Legation at Washington, to Miss Riggs, one of our young and lovely resident belles, and a severe edi- torial touching upon the finances of Mrs. Ex-President Lincoln, a subject foreign journalists evidently like to discuss. A few moments of conversation followed, and then came the parting with my friend and shipmate, who if lost in London gives promise of being found in Paris. It was a subject of regret not to be able to note down some of the places of interest in that world- renowned city ; the little that was seen was by dim twi- light, if not veritable night.
A few moments before the starting of the train we took seats in a luxurious compartment, and a short ride of an hour and a half brought us to the English chan- nel — that bugbear of the traveling public. Its effects are described as of a worse character than those produced by the mighty Atlantic ; yet very glad was I that suffi- cient penance had already been paid to old Neptune to secure me immunity at that juncture. What an ugly little boat it was that hugged the stone quay below, and how illimitable was the number of steps that led to it ! The moon being obscured by masses of floating clouds, the white cliffs of Dover could only be faintly descried; and then with a puff of black smoke off we shot to de- scribe zig-zags and all sorts of hieroglyphics on the
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water. To avert sea-sickness the horizontal position was advised, and fortunately so, as in some instances it served to bring kind Morpheus to the rescue : it was only the familiar cry of “ Port !” “Steady!” as we en- tered the harbor of Calais, that broke the spell. Ten minutes were granted for supper at the railway station on the quay, and then we took the train for Paris. A French couple, the only other occupants of our com- partment, gave us the benefit of their valuable conversa- tion one half of the distance, and after their departure the orange damask cushions afforded me a couch so pleasant as to render me entirely oblivious until within a half hour’s ride of the fortifications of this queenly city. My admiration is still for England, whose scenery is very much more beautiful and attractive ; yet I am happy in the land of vineyards, looking perhaps as wist- fully to the green grapes as the fox in the fable. * * * * * * Now there is a stir of travelers who have passed the ordeal of inspection hurrying away, and so my scrib- blings must be brought to a close. Installed in a cab outside of the station, waiting for my escort and the luggage, I am rejoiced to inhale the delicious morning air, believing as it fans my brow that a promise can be stolen from it to make me “good as new” in this city of charms. The coclier is directed to Avenue des Champs Elysees, and his lazy team carries us slowly through the streets, some of which are not unlike certain portions of New Orleans. The women are out in the early morn, some sweeping the pavements, and as they sweep are jabbering, or making an attempt at merry little songs,
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and others pursuing various avocations. A noticeable feature are the small white bonnets or caps, which seem as indispensable to their heads as apparel is to the body. If Napoleon troubled himself about matters of dress, we should certainly think that the wearing of the cap was enforced by Imperial decree.
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