CHAPTER I.

ROYAL MAIL STEAMSHIP JAVA.
October 9, 1867.
T HIS morning I left the Tremont House, Boston, to embark for Europe, with heart pulsating to the emotions of hope and fear; but amid the confu- sion and excitement on board the Java , bore up bravely when the time arrived for taking leave of my family escort. The English flag was given to the breeze, anchors were weighed, guns fired, and down the harbor we steamed to the bar, where there was a detention of several hours. Precisely at meridian the ship was finally off, and our strained eyes following the receding tugboat caught the last waving of handkerchiefs. As we stood upon the deck with what were our hearts most burdened, and who would have laid bare for perusal the thousand emotions that filled them? Were there not visions prospective and retrospective of home — of the peaceful green land about to be exchanged for the dark, troubled sea ? and did there not come from the depths of those B
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hearts the murmuring undertone ? We are going — we are coming. God be with you and with us ! Sad in- deed are the feelings of the traveler on his first voyage, as a city’s greatness fades away and the last streak of land disappears; and among the many partings that occur in life, and answering to every description, from the simple every-day farewell to the one heavily fraught with danger, none is more impressive than the embark- ment of a beloved object upon that vast eternity — the ocean — which stretches far away beyond the limits of sight, and with strange and unequaled power holds its own dominion, making earth seem a mere atom at its mercy. Thus, to that uncertain power friends are given up, and the good-bye uttered in sadness lingers on the fitful breeze, mingles in the music of the wave, follows the ship in its trackless course, sounding the echo of something sweet from the distant land — the last words of loved ones ! The early morning mist that had hung over Boston and spangled her shores (perhaps in sympa- thy with bedewed eyes) had risen like a vail and gone to meet the sun, whose glorious rays were beginning to flush sky and water. Out of that embrace came cheerful light, and as ours with friends was ended, smiles took the place of tears. Thanks for the bright sunbeam that penetrates the mist and gloom of nature, and forces its way into darkened hearts ! Thanks also for man’s in- genuity, that fashions such ships as this to resist the storms of ocean ! A fine breeze set in with our sailing, and our company at once indulged with zest in a prom- enade on the hurricauc deck. Fellow-passengers should
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fraternize at the start, forming, as they do, a little world of themselves, in which dependence is ever strongly felt. So I thought on finding that a perfect stranger was to share my stateroom, and the conviction is fast strength- ened upon discovering the intelligence and amiable qual- ities of Miss Tracy, of New York. I crave at the out- set some special indulgence in the mention of names, and should I at any time endeavor to throw a web of interest around them, I hope for pardon, at least from those who yield gracefully to Mother Eve’s weakness. On ship- board it seems that every one has individuality, and a name that has never known fame, or has worn a stain, is washed by sea-brine into some notoriety, if for no other reason than that all are travelers on the high sea, and may never be tossed so high again. Mr. Valentine cannot elude a distinguished mention, presiding over bank treasures in the great London, and serving as Uni- ted States Commissioner to the Paris Exposition. The jovial face of Captain Moodie gives an air of cheerful- ness to the ship, and his officers are handsome men of the English type, wearing the naval uniform. It is in- deed refreshing to see the ruddy hue of health that glows on their cheeks, and we do not wonder that many enthusiastically exclaim, “ The life of the sailor for me!” There must be something glorious in the bounding wave the showering spray, and the pranks of old Boreas! The stewardess, not an unimportant character to those who succumb to mal de mer , already engages my regard, for in counting the days to be passed aboard ship, coming evils suggest themselves, and I therefore appreciate the
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necessity of providing a friend for adversity. 4 Our dinner-meal to-day gathered together all the passengers.
It is said that the first day out affords the Captain, perhaps, his only opportunity to inspect all the human freight ; for often the vessel that leaves a dock teeming with life and good health, presents a few hours later the appearance of a hospital, whose yellow flag might well supersede the pennon at the mast-head.
Thus far we have not become wretched beings deplor- ing existence, but are respectable in looks, having stom- achs worthy of insurance. All are in a mood to enjoy seats on the upper deck, and to watch the sun go down to his evening rest. I shall go to mine with prayer upon my lips, God forgive me, if more earnest than it should be always !
Odobei' 10. — “ Bright and beautiful, — how favored !” was the exclamation upon nearly every lip to-day. Sev- eral timid women, however, commented upon the fresh- ness of the wind and the rise of the waves, wondering if the ocean could hold still greater terrors in reserve; but their fe$rs were laughed at by a mischievous old tar, who said, “Wait, ladies, until you get into the trough of the sea, and then you will see something to be fright- ened at.” A friend handed me the latest New York Herald with its interesting items, social and political, all of which were eagerly perused to the exclusion of maritime intelligence. Then came a peep at the pictures of my family album ! Should we not bless that won- derful art, which preserves to us the images of cherished
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ones ; for although the heart may hold its revel of mem- ory, and delight in the love it bears for the absent, the eye finds greater joy in tracing in the silent and inani- mate counterfeit, features familiar and well-beloved? We watched from time to time a little bird that had followed us from Boston, hovering about the bow of the ship, and chirping and trilling as if it momentarily ex- pected the man on the lookout to announce green fields, trees and flowers.
As the first streak of land (Halifax) appeared on the horizon, it stretched its pinions for flight, bestowing a few farewell notes, and we were not long in following the little wanderer to shore. The light-house signals were responded to at the distance of three miles, by the hoisting of four streamers that spelled our name. Before reaching the harbor the saloon filled up rapidly with passengers bearing writing implements, all anxious to send off letters to family and friends. In my instance, either the hurried and close application to paper or the downward inclination of head occasioned a sudden qualm, the prolongation of which might have resulted in a calamity unworthy of a passenger within sight of land; and I therefore sought the deck, to enjoy not only the air and sunshine, but a view of the town. Watches were drawn from many a snug vcst-pockct and tiny waist, to note the happy hour which would grant a short respite ; and it was half-past two, i\ M., when the boom of a gun announced the arrival of the Java. The coup d’ccil gave a nautical world in the hundreds of mast-heads that crowded the shore, and in the numerous
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schooners, sloops and brigs anchored out, all of which lay, as it were, in quiet submission to a black, frowning monitor y said to have been purchased of the United States by the French Government for the sum of one million of dollars. The mention of so much money pleased our ears far more than did the iron-dad our eyes ; for, nearly hidden by the water, it appeared truly insignificant. However, in our late war-service this may have been " stooping to conquer,” and if it crosses the turbulent Atlantic in safety, France will have made a good bargain, whilst her navy will be a match for that of any of her hostile neighbors. What a bustling in- terest the arrival of our steamer occasioned ! The greet- ing of citizens and soldiers to us strangers awakened the feeling that we are all brethren making the voyage of life — toiling together, and hoping to reach at last the strand of the "spirit-land.”
Having found a substantial footing on shore, our party, to avoid the fatiguing ascent of the high hill, se- cured a carriage. It may have been done on the selfish "double-quick,” as vehicles were few and persons many ; but this consideration for self and comfort enabled us to see more of the town, which wore an aspect decidedly foreign, its garrisons bearing evidence of Britannia’s rule. The attractions were few, yet some boast could be made of several massive buildings, and a superb height, crowned by a fort — ‘the towering glory of the place, with its sloping sides in emerald green. One sad spectacle met our gaze — the funeral of a British soldier. The hearse, with its heavy black drapery and mournful
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plumes, was followed by comrades clad in gray, whose slow measured steps accorded perfectly with the solemn music. The notes of the funeral march died upon our ears as we returned to the ship, which seemed more of a resting-place or more like home than the land, for the reason that we were destined to belong to it for some time.
Our dinner, as we lay at dock, was gotten up in good style, with an abundance of fine fruits and other delica- cies, that were happily enjoyed, there being no jostling of elbows from “ sudden swells ” and “ shipping seas.” How trying must be those moments when mermaids and sea-nymphs raise aloft their arms and toss the vessel — when crockery dances about as if in the hands of a jug- gler — when a chosen morsel of food which was expected to lodge beyond the ivories tumbles into an adjoining plate, and a glass of wine ( la premiere qualite) empties itself as readily into a pocket as down that convenient and fit receptacle — -man’s throat! An old fellow on the opposite side of the table was heard to give this homely yet wholesome advice to his wife, who seemed to have no appetite: “It is well, my dear, to lay in, because
after awhile you can ’t eat.” And he practiced what he preached, as was shown in the quantities of food that disappeared from various dishes around. He soon ex- hausted the bill of fare, and, like Oliver Twist, asked for more. Some parties, perhaps stimulated by the old man’s logic, lingered at table; others left to indulge in the last steady promenade on deck.
The passenger-list having been largely added to at
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Halifax, many persons came on board to bid farewell to friends, and there remained until the busy stir of sailors and the tolling bell gave warning that they must x “ be off” It was seven p. m. when the Captain’s form ap- peared on the little bridge that spans the hurricane deck. The officers, too, were at their posts ; and the cries of “Steady!” and “ Port !” came shortly afterwards, as the ship steamed out of the harbor. One long, lingering look we gave to Halifax, and an oft-repeated good-bye to the land.
October 11. — In peace we have slumbered the second night of the voyage, rocked by the lullaby of the wind, and cradled in just as small space as in the days of inno- cent infancy. Now, fast in old ocean’s grip, our ship is played with as if it were a cork or trap-ball bounding to and fro from aquatic walls. Like giant- arms the encircling billows stretch out, to make us feel our dependence on that God who ruleth over land and sea, and whose commanding voice has stilled the tem- pest and the waves — “ Thus far shalt thou go, and no further !”
At mid-day, reclining upon comfortable blankets, spread upon the deck in Oriental style, and quite lux- urious, we saw on the tossing waves a lonely little boat, struggling, as it were, in its solitude to get beyond our sight. It held nothing human, and there was naught to tell its story ! Perhaps the life that animated it some hours before had gone out through despair in the dark- ness of the night ; had been engulphed in the waves
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whose eternal motion we were watching. If so, may a heavenly morrow in light and joy anchor the soul in that Port beyond the storms of ocean, and where all earthly buffetings cease !
* * * * This afternoon affords an opportunity of making a sketch of some of the passengers ; and of the mortal ken around there is a sufficient variety to form an interesting group. Foremost is a young and beau- tiful girl, with face and form that would eclipse the V enus of the Sea, and entitle its owner to be the heroine of a charming romance. On this occasion, however, the pen is likely to describe an ugly, awkward movement from the motion of the boat, and the writer would prefer to glorify such an object elsewhere than on top of the crested wave. How pleasingly could be woven a tale of a flower-wreathed bark, with a guiding spirit at the helm, who would condescend to say to some poor, struggling mortal in the cold waters of “single wretchedness:” “En- ter in, and I will lead you to a haven of happiness even more desirable than the Livorpool dock !” But the idea is at once destroyed of manufacturing a love-history with an agreeable and happy result, as this same lovely creature wears the love-light in her eye for a cavalier on one side of the deck, and brightens anew to another on the opposite side. Oh, woman ! coquetry is power, and it is yours to wield in gentle use, or stern abuse. What a dangerous weapon in your soft, fair hand; for whilst its blade flashes over many a trusting heart, it does the work of magnetizing the surface, if not of in- flicting by a bold thrust a wound that no surgeon’s skill
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can heal ! We wonder if our bewitching beauty counts the hearts seared out or consumed by the inflammable torch of bright eyes, or if she stops in the march of con- quest to sigh over those who have fallen by the cold steel of her indifference. We do not regret that she has attracted England at the bow of the boat, and brought him to his knees, thus making him forget the usual stiff, conventional salute ; but we are grateful that, from love of country, she has raised America to a more elevated position.
Seated upon a high coil of rope, our countryman looks to the uppermost rigging of the ship, thinking, perhaps, that he would be willing to scale the very clouds for her sake. Still another vassal to her will, holds a goblet containing the champagne remedy, with this thought expressed on his countenance, “ What if she should be sea-sick ! ” Yet, who will not acknowledge that Beauty deserves a long train of admirers, and in this instance, who would not worship very near, and follow the white plume } just as lovingly as the breeze that plays in and about its soft down? In contrast with the graceful girl- ish figure is a jolly little man, hugely corpulent, but the personification of good humor. He goes about distrib- uting kind words generally, and is like light in a dark place. I, too, would think his company desirable, but for the narrative he has just poured into my car of a dreadful shipwreck that occurred not long since, and where only a trifling number were saved. Can he know that his subject is ill chosen, and calculated to affect the beatings of my heart ? Yet, if we were really in danger,
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this comfortable looking individual (provided lie would keep silent) might lessen much of the chill of fear. There stand a newly married couple, young and hand- some, who excite a whispered comment of praise ; a small group of missionary divines with their wives, bound for the East, in the sacred calling of “ Soldiers of the Cross a few British officers, wearing scarlet coats, to enliven the scene ; a chatty and agreeable widow, rich in diamonds, and her maid (a Scotch lassie, very preten- tious), wearing a trained robe and a basquine trimmed a la Huzzar ; a theological student of more than ordinary erudition, whose fund is drawn upon daily without danger of exhaustion, and several gentlemen bearing the Cunard name, a distinction at once acknowledged, from the high lavor in which this line of steamers is held. There is also an aged lady, whose mild benevo- lent countenance is lighted up with intelligence. She is the sister of one of our most celebrated historians. Little children fill up the background, lovely, sweet and engaging voyagers, among those whose locks have gathered the hoarfrost of many winters.
October 12. — Last evening six or seven of us seated ourselves a la Turque on deck to make jolly the hour with song and anecdote. There was an abundant indul- gence in conundrums, one being, “Why is Andrew’ Johnson like the rudder of our ship?” “Because he steers w r cll amid opposing elements ! ” If our inclina- tions had been consulted, we W’ould not have heeded the last strokes of the bell, w r hich sent us av'ay from the
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beautiful moonlight to the dimly lighted cabins below. Eleven o’clock is the latest hour permitted the passen- gers to prepare for rest, as after that an Erebus darkness prevails. Even poor little Cinderella was allowed more time to reach her ash-barrel couch ! Shoes have dropped from our feet in the same haste as the little glass slipper fell from hers ; yet, after all, rigid regulations must not be complained of, the caution observed, and the vigilant watch on board these steamers being most commendable. Every voice should join in a stentorian huzzah for Eng- land’s protecting care*on the sea.
Nothing of interest occurred to-day, except that the waves grew higher ; the sky became overcast, and sev- eral showers of rain baptized us. It is noticeable that some of the company no longer preserve a steady step, and that the bouuding motion of the ship conduces to Terpsichorean feats, regardless of music or will. May not my qualmy feelings be the precursor of a state of wretchedness, and dreary times below with stewardess as friend ?***** At the hour of 5 P. M., cosily tucked in on deck under a huge Buffalo robe, and with eyes and thoughts directed upward as far as possible from the horrid water, I feel just in the humor to hate the sea-gods, and all else appertaining to the ocean. Not even “ wild music from fluted conchs ” can pacify me ! The -wind is blowing fresh, and the sailors are at work in the rigging. Their peculiar song or cry attracts attention, and we wonder if they can be really happy. Surely they arc creatures of duty ; and may the honest old tar who sees most of storm in this world find a greeting of sunshine and calm in the next !
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October 16. — Oh! ye days unchronicled ! If ye had been put down I would blot ye out with briny tears. Sea-sickness ! monstrous malady which, once begun, seems never-ending! Down in the cabin, prostrate, with eyes closed and mouth open, quite willing to be swal- lowed by Jonah’s whale or to get rid of life by any means — obliged to be patient, though bumped every moment and bruised at every angle — scorning food, only to aggravate the feeling of “goneness ” — wondering why ships were ever made, or why Europe turned a Circe to lure one through a whirlpool of distress, to wreck both stomach and brain, leaving scarcely a heart to love with or a soul to pray from ! The question arises, why should we be thus punished in our seafaring life, and be denied a further enjoyment of the broad expanse of ocean, with skies to meet its outskirts ? Truly its grandeur finds no expression in words — a wrapt emotion alone, paying silent tribute to the great Creator ! Alas ! that enfeebled frames and a lack of vitality compel us to remain in our state-rooms, which are like the “ black hole of Cal- cutta,” the only ray of light being the cheering presence of friends, who report upon what is passing above. Their words of encouragement do not go amiss, and the grapes and peaches they bring save us from utter starva- tion. Thiuk of a person who has paid his passage- money, a^olid lump of $150 in ore, (especially in these days of our depreciated currency), being obliged to call himself throughout the voyage a starved beggar — an epi- thet indeed appropriate, for he would like to feed his c
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stomach, but dares not ; and although it spurns food, it is still hungry enough to beg. The tortures of Tantalus are fully realized by a sea-sick passenger on a Cunard steamer, the fare being of a quality to satisfy a fastidious gastronomist.
I heard that a large schooner last night shot across and barely missed our bowsprit. What dangers thread our course! But God was with us ! Why prate, then, of trials and suffering, after such an evidence of divine protection ? Thus far we have passed only one steamer, which we signaled with rockets. The sea last evening, roughened by wind and rain, tvas said to have presented the appearance of. a thousand cataracts. The waves were mingling together in appalling sound like heavy thunder, and extending their might and wrath against the vessel. Church service was conducted in the 6aloon on Sunday, but the impressive scene was lost to me!
October 17. — The Java is making fifteen knots an hour, and promises one of the quickest passages on record — -joyful tidings for the invalids who have barely strength to crawl up on deck. As we near “ old Erin’s ” shores our hearts beat lighter and happier. Sterile as the rock-bound coast appears, there is a wild beauty about it, so solitary and sea-girt, with only the gulls for company. It is the St. Helena of my imagination ! The eye cannot discern a single hnman being ; and even should there be one, the lonely dreariness of the place would make a Napoleonic spirit fret itself away with
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only the sound of the sighing winds and the surging tide. Tennyson’s lines are brought to mind :
tl Break, break, break,
On thy cold gray stones, oh sea !
And I would that my tongue could utter The thoughts that arise in me.
******
“ Break, break, break,
At the foot of thy crags, oh sea !
But the tender grace of a day that is dead Will never come back to me.”
These moments, fraught with the bright anticipation of soon reaching land, can never be dead to memory : and although Tennyson’s verse is ever sweet, still other poets we choose to greet. Now, under the inspiration of Byron’s health-bumper to Moore, we propose to drink to “ ould Ireland ” with whatever is good ; so on with the champagne, sherry and moselle !
October 18. — Last evening brought us within sight of Queenstown, and we hove to at a distance of two miles from her dim showing of lights. Soon came the tugboat to bear off the mails and passengers ; but whilst the sea appeared calm, her treachery was at work beneath the fair surface. Lashed to our bulwark of strength with stout cables, the tug meant to be faithful in her embrace, but she was torn from us ruthlessly, angrily, defiantly. At such a juncture, of what avail was the voice of man? What were ropes, timber or anything in the face of that dread element which once destroyed the world ? Stand- ing upon the deck, we felt our security, but trembled
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for the fate of the tug, which seemed to be dashing her- self to pieces against the staunch sides of the Java . Twice was she thrust away, and bore up again in shat- tered garb, as if determined to conquer tide and swell. Several sailors, dispirited and exhausted, fell at the top of the gang-plank from the laborious work of winding the windlass, and others pressed on with haste to lay down their burden of heavy mail bags. One narrowly escaped a dip in old ocean, and but for the timely assist- ance of the first officer would have lessened the number of the crew. Captain Moodie firmly interdicted the transfer of passengers in the face of such danger ; and the boom of our guns as the ship moved on seemed like a wail across the waters, or the sound of rolling drums beating a last farewell to the poor little boat. Still trusting that she might reach her haven, we left the mist and rain above, and repaired to the saloon to dis- cuss broiled ham and Welsh rare-bit.
This morning the sun shone brightly, and the cheer- ing prospect of a speedy landing brightened many a face that a day or two since was wrinkled and sour, peevish and sallow. The waters of St. George’s Channel, so placid and calm, wore an emerald tint far removed from (he deep blue and gray of the bounding billow ; and the spirit of animation was indeed abroad, the ships coming on one by one bearing grateful signs of life that had long been denied our sight. I myself began to feel that through whatever clouds or darkness I had passed, the “ Star of Hope” had not been lost : may it irradiate all my future wanderings! A double meal in lunch
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and dinner was served in the saloon, and the steward’s kind hand had deposited at my plate a delicious bunch of grapes — doubtless the last of his stock. Many were the eyes that envied me its possession ! Some of the company quaffed a parting bumper to the Java . — Long may she float a monarch ship of the sea, and bear her living freight in safety to every port! The last thing to be done was to make a visit to our state-rooms to re- ward the services of the faithful stewardess. Upon returning to the deck, the Liverpool docks — pronounced to be the finest in the world — were in sight, stretching away in one continuous line of six miles ; and the scene presented was truly beautiful, in the hundreds of white sails and tiny row-boats that studded the Mersey. Shortly after, when the machinery of our ship ceased its motion, the joy that animated our hearts was in a measure like that of Columbus’ sailors when they cried “Land ! land !” Thousands of miles had been traversed in a little less than nine days, and one country had been exchanged for another.
The tug brought up the Custom House officers in large numbers, besides friends and relatives of the pas- sengers. Many a joyful meeting was looked upon by some of us in silent sympathy, as our greeting with absent ones could only be through the medium of fond thought and remembrance. Upon the lower deck the luggage of a hundred and thirty-nine passengers was deposited, and the officers in their mock inspections made us exclaim, “ What a farce!” I handed over my keys, satisfied there would be a short and neat rum- c*
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maging, very glad that no woman’s curiosity and eager search were to be encountered. Several hours were consumed in the transfer to the tug of trunks, boxes, and what-not, all of which were watched impatiently, impressing us with the thought that our belongings were of more importance than ourselves. As the last piece disappeared, I found myself the nearest passenger to the gang-plank — a steep inclined plane which threat- ened to slide me as unceremoniously as it had done the luggage. The descent, however, was safely made, first officer Brown standing at the head, and second officer Webster coming up half way to proffer aid — who knows but that a hand or two may have been squeezed out of sheer timidity , if not gratitude f
It was five o’clock in the afternoon, the sun was set- ting, and with her “ parting fires ” cast a glow upon the Java that lay proudly at rest. If there arose one feel- ing of regret, it was in sundering our connections with the noble vessel that had performed the good work of bearing us safely to land. The last token of “ farewell ” from the ship was the waving of a white handkerchief by some hand that did not grow weary, — but perhaps the “ invisible fingers of air ” kept it afloat ! An event sad in nature occurred on the Java at the moment of anchorage — the death of a passenger, a British soldier from Halifax, who was returning on furlough to his native land. As he neared the haven that contained all that was dearest to his heart — wife, children and friends — his spirit took its flight. The surgeon whose fidelity to the sick had been remarked, endeavored to move the
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poor creature to the deck, but the exertion caused the rupture of a blood vessel, and the tide of life ebbed away in three short minutes. Throughout the voyage the unmistakable cough that presages death to the con- sumptive sounded its knell in the state-room adjoining mine ; yet, I did not dream that the Destroyers’ hand was so near.
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